Travel
Where legends thrive
Often called the cultural capital of Assam, Tezpur is also known for its historical sites and beautiful temples
Ranjita Biswas

A view of commemorative park created in memory of artiste Bishnu Prasad Rabha
A view of commemorative park created in memory of artiste Bishnu Prasad Rabha

Bamunipahar hills, also called Ushapahar, display beautifully carved stone sculptures belonging to 11th and 12th century; and (right) a view of the Brahmaputra
Bamunipahar hills, also called Ushapahar, display beautifully carved stone sculptures belonging to 11th and 12th century; and (right) a view of the Brahmaputra

Ruins of Bamunipahar
Ruins of Bamunipahar — Photos by the writer

THE legend of a love story is intertwined with the picturesque town of Tezpur in Assam. The town lies on the north bank of the Brahmaputra with the backdrop of the Himalayan foothills in Arunachal Pradesh.

The story of amour is of beautiful Usha, daughter of the powerful King Bana, who fell in love with a handsome prince in her dream. She did not know who he was until her best friend Chitralekha, an expert painter, drew the picture from her description. It turned out to be Aniruddha, grandson of Lord Krishna.

But there was a problem. Bana was a staunch worshipper of Lord Shiva. Allowing his daughter to marry a Vaishnavite prince was out of the question. He imprisoned her, along with Chitralekha, in a fort surrounded by fire called Agnigarh (fort of fire). A bloody battle between Lord Krishna and Bana followed. The name Tezpur, also known as Sonitpur earlier, both denote blood (tez/sonit) in the local Assamese language. The story ended on a happy note though as the lovers were united after Bana was defeated.

The legend might be embedded in folklore, but Agnigarh hillock does exist in Tezpur. Today, it has been turned into a park called Usha-Aniruddha Udyan. From here the magnificent Brahmaputra’s is a soothing sight for the tired eyes.

Even in recorded history, Tezpur had been known for its ancestry. The ruins strewn around the town are proof enough. The Cole Park is a sprawling area with a lake in between. The visitors get to sit not on the usual benches but on blocks of embellished stone slabs which were recovered from ruined sites.

Bamunipahar hills, sometimes called Ushapahar, display beautifully carved stone sculptures belonging to 11th and 12th century when kings from the Salashambha dynasty made their capital at Harupesvar, which historians locate at Tezpur. Pundits say that it was the largest temple complex in Assam.

Another remarkable example of architectural excellence is located at Dah Parbatiya village close to Tezpur. The doorframe bears two beautiful figures identified as Ganga and Yamuna and representative of the Gupta period.

Assam lies in a tectonically sensitive area and frequent earthquakes, some of very large intensity, have destroyed many structures of yore. The Dah Parbatiya ruins, as well as those in Bamunipahar, are such instances, experts say.

Tezpur is also famous for the Mahabhirab temple devoted to Lord Shiva. The huge lingam attracts devotees from far and wide, particularly during the Shivratri festival. Legends say that the temple’s past goes to Bana’s time and that he used to come here for praying. The present structure, of course, has been built in modern times.

The modern-day Tezpur is often referred to as the cultural capital of Assam. It has nurtured such cultural icons of Assam as Jyoti Prasad Agarwala, the first Assamese filmmaker, poet and lyricist, Bishnu Prasad Rabha, a multitalented artiste, and Bhupen Hazarika who passed away recently.

Perhaps the beauty of the place with the Brahmaputra as a companion, an undulating landscape and hills around and a huge pond like Padum-Pukhuri (lake of lotuses) in the heart of the town encourage creativity. At the centre of the town in front of his ancestral house called ‘Poki’ can be seen the white statue of Jyoti Prasad Agarwala, also called Rupkonwar – the ‘Prince of Art’. On the bank of the Brahmaputra is a commemorative park in memory of the other icon, Bishnu Prasad Rabha.

The 3.05 km Kalia Bhomora Bridge, dedicated to a warrior general, connects Tezpur to upper Assam on the southern bank. A drive by this long river bridge gives an opportunity to enjoy the unparalleled beauty of the Brahmaputra and the green countryside.

To the north, a day trip to Bhalukpung on the border of Arunachal Pradesh offers breathtaking view of the valley and the hills with the sparkling Jia Bhoroli river, known as Kameng upstream, keeping company. In winter this area becomes a popular picnic spot.

Nearby is an eco camp where overnight stays are possible on reservation. This can be done on a day trip too from Tezpur. The annual angling competition here in winter has been a tradition from the British planters’ days. The great mohseer is a famous catch but today, responding to environmental concerns, the catch has to be returned to the river.

The Nameri wildlife sanctuary with a variety of animals is adjacent to it.

Visitors to Tawang of the Golden Pagoda fame go from Tezpur via Bomdila. A special inner line permit is necessary to travel there as Arunachal lies at the sensitive international border which can be obtained in Tezpur too.

Tezpur is indeed a place of interest even though it is small compared to big cities. Perhaps that is its USP.

FACT FILE

How to get there: Buses, taxis ply regularly from Guwahati. There are also direct flights to Tezpur.

Where to stay: Budget hotels to semi-luxury hotels are available.

What to do: Visit Agnigarh, Cole Park, ruins of Bamunipahar, and temples. Short day trips to places of interest are recommended.

What to buy: Cane handicrafts, hand-woven clothes and linens, sarees etc.

 

Globetrotting

The locks that guard love

THERE are thousands of "love locks" adorning the bridges of River Seine. The custom of attaching padlocks to bridge railings, fences or other public fixtures as a way for couples to pledge their undying love is of uncertain origin, but many link it to a 2006 novel, Ho Voglia di Te (I Want You), by Italian author Federico Moccia. In it, two lovers attach a padlock engraved with their names to a lamppost on the Ponte Milvio in northern Rome, then throw the key into River Tiber.

What could be more romantic than attaching a love lock to the Pont des Arts, the footbridge that crosses the Seine from the Left Bank to the Louvre? Or to the Pont de l’Archeveche, in the shadow of Notre Dame Cathedral? Most couples throw away the key, but some hang on to them as keepsakes for their children.

Tourists take pictures (left); and (right) a man plays the saxophone on the Pont des Arts, a famous bridge in Paris where people hang “love locks”
Tourists take pictures (left); and (right) a man plays the saxophone on the Pont des Arts, a famous bridge in Paris where people hang “love locks”. Photo: AFP/Fred Dufour

"People like it and they tell other people about it," City Hall spokesman Damien Steffan says with a Gallic shrug, adding: "They give Paris some publicity."

Seen from a distance the Pont des Arts today glints like gold, its sides covered in brass dotted here and there with wisps of white where brides have tied on strips from their wedding veils. Tourists snap pictures of the jumbles of padlocks — even chunky bicycle locks in places — or jostle for a place to attach their own.

The locks are absent from bridges with glass or stone railings, but at the Seine’s oldest bridge, the all-stone Pont Neuf, tourists make do by locking their love onto the railing of the steps down to the quay. The love lock trend has spread to cities around the world from Moscow to Marrakesh. In Florence, however, the locks are barred from the Ponte Vecchio – the city’s oldest bridge, known for the dozens of shops lining the span in three storeys — for fear of damage to the metal railings. In Paris, an American tourist, Suzan Field from Nevada, said she and her husband attached a love lock at the Pont de l’Archeveche two years ago and planned to check on it every two years. — AFP





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