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Delft delights
Located between Rotterdam and The Hague, the historical Dutch town of Delft is known for its lovely canals; besides painter Vermeer and blue pottery
Nivedita Choudhuri

There is more to Delft than blue plates. The delightful town was home to Dutch Golden Age painter, Johannes Vermeer, and lies between The Hague and Rotterdam. The town, with its humpbacked bridges and eye-catching buildings along pretty canals can boost anybody’s spirits.

The Market Square at Delft
The Market Square at Delft

The first grand sight is of two grand churches near Delft’s main square. These quintessential attractions are Nieuwe Kerk (new church) and Oude Kerk (old church). Nieuwe Kerk was built in the 15th century and it has served as the final resting place of many members of the Dutch royal household. In 1584, William the Silent, or simply William of Orange – the main leader of the Dutch against the Spanish in the Eighty Years War, was buried in this church after his assassination.

The ancient Market Square itself is normally abuzz with activity in the early hours. A bustling array of makeshift stalls sell anything from Edam and Gouda cheese to sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, salads, stodgy stews and chips. The enticing aromas of grilled sausages and bacon paninis is tempting to tourists and locals alike while the young and old queue up for steaming mugs of coffee and waffles to beat the nip in the air.

FACT FILE

Getting there: There are flights from New Delhi to Amsterdam via KLM, Royal Jordanian or Air India. Trains run every few minutes from Amsterdam to Delft.The 15th century Nieuwe Kerk (new church) is the final resting place of many Dutch royals

Staying there: Options to suit every budget. Campanile Hotel is located near Vermeer Centrum, Oude Kerk and Niuewe Kerk. Room prices start from £54. This 3-star property has complimentary wireless Internet access in its public areas and buffet breakfasts (surcharges apply).

What to do: The town with its network of canals is lovely for strolls. There are various museums, churches and many historical buildings.

What to buy: Blue pottery, variety of cheeses



The 15th century Nieuwe Kerk (new church) is the final resting place of many Dutch royals

Most of the shops in the square deal in the blue-and-white pottery that has made Delft famous for more than 400 years. Ashtrays, tiles, figurines, clogs, vases, storage jars, windmills, baskets, plates, jugs and beer tankards were flying off the shelves. However, blue is not the only colour on offer. There are pretty ceramic items in yellow, green and red-brown as well.

On way to Oude Kerk, visitors trudge past Museum Het Prinsenhof, where they can still see the bullet holes in the walls and find out how William of Orange was killed. The Oude Kerk was built in the 13th century and is the final resting place of Vermeer. There is a plaque in the church dedicated to Vermeer, who lived close by.

The next stop obviously is at the home of Delft’s most famous son, Johannes, or Jan, Vermeer. The painter was born in 1632 and spent his entire life in Delft before dying at 43 in 1675. His paintings may have gained fame all over the world, but he rarely ventured out of Delft. Unlike Rembrandt van Rijn, the most famous artist of the Dutch Golden Age who left behind hundreds of drawings, paintings and etchings, Vermeer left behind only 34 paintings.

Vermeer’s paintings all deal with uncomplicated scenes of humdrum domesticity – a maid pouring milk from a pitcher in a kitchen, a music lesson in progress, a woman reading a letter. A world far removed from Vermeer’s is Museum Nusantara, which can be next stop. The museum showcases the arts, crafts and culture of former Dutch colony, the Dutch East Indies, or modern-day Indonesia. Woodcarvings, textiles, jewellery, gamelans — traditional ensembles of musical instruments, furniture and puppets are displayed in a smallish room.

To rest your tired legs there are some cafes around which offer a bite to eat and a cup of coffee. And it is better to rest, for the next stop, Royal Delft/Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles factory, there is a mile-long walk. It has been around since 1653. This is apparently the only factory from the 17th century that still survives.

More than 140,000 visitors troop down to the factory annually to view antique Delftware and find out more about the origins of Dutch blue pottery. Dutch potters apparently learnt this trade from their colleagues in Italy. The number of factories increased rapidly during the 17th century as agents of the Dutch East India Company (founded in 1602) brought back enormous quantities of Chinese porcelain from the Far East. This sort of porcelain was decorated in blue on a white background. The Dutch quickly grew to love it and local potters started to imitate the oriental style.

Buses are constantly pulling up in front of the factory as tourists descend in hordes to learn about the production process of Delftware. There are artisans deep in concentration as they tackle jars and vases with deft brushstrokes. The tulip holders particularly stand out These are vases with spouts that can hold a large number of exotic flowers. There are a few striking tulip holders in Chatsworth House, England .They were probably gifts from William of Orange and his consort, Mary, who had been invited to take over the throne of England from Mary’s Catholic father, James II, in 1688. The then duke of Chatsworth was one of the aristocrats who had extended a helping hand to William and Mary. These pyramid-shaped tulip holders can make good souvenirs but are quite expensive at around £500.

As dusk sets in and shop-owners down shutters after a day’s hard work, the pleasant memories of Delft and its beautiful Market Square remain etched on mind.

The Dutch blue pottery, also called Delftware; and (right) an inside view of the 13th century Oude Kerk (old church) Photos: Tourist Information Point, Delft

The Dutch blue pottery, also called Delftware; and (right) an inside view of the 13th century Oude Kerk (old church) Photos: Tourist Information Point, Delft

 


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‘Ass’ you like it

A woman milks a donkey at the Zasavica farm
A woman milks a donkey at the Zasavica farm

Zasavica, one of Serbia's famous natural reserves, is home to a herd of 100 Balkan donkeys. These animals earn their keep in an unusual way: they produce milk for the world's most expensive cheese. At 1,000 euros ($1,272) per kg, it is the most expensive cheese in the world. It is sold under the name Pule (quite an unappetising name that means 'foal' in Serbian). The cheese is apparently about twice the cost of moose cheese. Manager of Zasavica Special Nature Reserve, Slobodan Simi?, says that no special ingredients are used to make the cheese but justifies the most expensive tag. OneA donkey is seen kg of Pule cheese is made out of 25 litres of milk. As one litre of Balkan donkey’s milk costs 40 euros and so the price totals up to 1,000 euros per kg. Since the time it was promoted at a Tourism Fair, only half a kg of this smoked cheese has been ordered as of yet. Currently Pule is made only on an advanced order basis. The reserve authorities are also considering producing donkey milk, which is said to have been a beauty secret of Cleopatra's. The milk will be used for making cosmetic creams, soaps, and a type of liquor.
Photos: Reuters/Marko Djurica


A donkey is seen at the farm

A man inspects donkey cheese in the village of Kukujevci near a farm in Zasavica, Serbia
A man inspects donkey cheese in the village of Kukujevci near a farm in Zasavica, Serbia
A worker checks containers of donkey cheese at the farm in Zasavica Resort
A worker checks containers of donkey cheese at the farm in Zasavica Resort





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