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The first grand sight is of two grand churches near Delft’s main square. These quintessential attractions are Nieuwe Kerk (new church) and Oude Kerk (old church). Nieuwe Kerk was built in the 15th century and it has served as the final resting place of many members of the Dutch royal household. In 1584, William the Silent, or simply William of Orange – the main leader of the Dutch against the Spanish in the Eighty Years War, was buried in this church after his assassination. The ancient Market
Square itself is normally abuzz with activity in the early hours. A
bustling array of makeshift stalls sell anything from Edam and Gouda
cheese to sandwiches, pastas, pizzas, salads, stodgy stews and chips.
The enticing aromas of grilled sausages and bacon paninis is tempting
to tourists and locals alike while the young and old queue up for
steaming mugs of coffee and waffles to beat the nip in the air.
Most of the shops in the square deal in the blue-and-white pottery that has made Delft famous for more than 400 years. Ashtrays, tiles, figurines, clogs, vases, storage jars, windmills, baskets, plates, jugs and beer tankards were flying off the shelves. However, blue is not the only colour on offer. There are pretty ceramic items in yellow, green and red-brown as well. On way to Oude Kerk, visitors trudge past Museum Het Prinsenhof, where they can still see the bullet holes in the walls and find out how William of Orange was killed. The Oude Kerk was built in the 13th century and is the final resting place of Vermeer. There is a plaque in the church dedicated to Vermeer, who lived close by. The next stop obviously is at the home of Delft’s most famous son, Johannes, or Jan, Vermeer. The painter was born in 1632 and spent his entire life in Delft before dying at 43 in 1675. His paintings may have gained fame all over the world, but he rarely ventured out of Delft. Unlike Rembrandt van Rijn, the most famous artist of the Dutch Golden Age who left behind hundreds of drawings, paintings and etchings, Vermeer left behind only 34 paintings. Vermeer’s paintings all deal with uncomplicated scenes of humdrum domesticity – a maid pouring milk from a pitcher in a kitchen, a music lesson in progress, a woman reading a letter. A world far removed from Vermeer’s is Museum Nusantara, which can be next stop. The museum showcases the arts, crafts and culture of former Dutch colony, the Dutch East Indies, or modern-day Indonesia. Woodcarvings, textiles, jewellery, gamelans — traditional ensembles of musical instruments, furniture and puppets are displayed in a smallish room. To rest your tired legs there are some cafes around which offer a bite to eat and a cup of coffee. And it is better to rest, for the next stop, Royal Delft/Koninklijke Porceleyne Fles factory, there is a mile-long walk. It has been around since 1653. This is apparently the only factory from the 17th century that still survives. More than 140,000 visitors troop down to the factory annually to view antique Delftware and find out more about the origins of Dutch blue pottery. Dutch potters apparently learnt this trade from their colleagues in Italy. The number of factories increased rapidly during the 17th century as agents of the Dutch East India Company (founded in 1602) brought back enormous quantities of Chinese porcelain from the Far East. This sort of porcelain was decorated in blue on a white background. The Dutch quickly grew to love it and local potters started to imitate the oriental style. Buses are constantly pulling up in front of the factory as tourists descend in hordes to learn about the production process of Delftware. There are artisans deep in concentration as they tackle jars and vases with deft brushstrokes. The tulip holders particularly stand out These are vases with spouts that can hold a large number of exotic flowers. There are a few striking tulip holders in Chatsworth House, England .They were probably gifts from William of Orange and his consort, Mary, who had been invited to take over the throne of England from Mary’s Catholic father, James II, in 1688. The then duke of Chatsworth was one of the aristocrats who had extended a helping hand to William and Mary. These pyramid-shaped tulip holders can make good souvenirs but are quite expensive at around £500. As dusk sets in and shop-owners down shutters after a day’s hard work, the pleasant memories of Delft and its beautiful Market Square remain etched on mind.
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