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THE cut of meat that we love above all is the pasanda-fillet, flattened and scored with a sharp, heavy knife. It absorbs flavours sincerely and almost effortlessly, doesn't require bothersome tenderising and unless you are careless to overcook doesn't turn stringy. The old Delhi classic is of course the badam pasanda but believe you us, even without the almonds the stuff is mouth watering. Our friend Alok Rai cooks a delightful tash kebab, delicately "layering" one subtly marinated pasanda on top of another to create a dainty dish resembling a deck of cards. Jiggs, the indefatigable improviser, once created a roulade-stuffed pasanda commemorating (who else?) Wajid Ali Shah. The delectable Bihari kebab is crafted from a raan treated as a jumbo pasanda. There are days when the palate yearns for a no-frills-yet-delicious fare and we revisit this trusted home recipe. Don't let the name deter you. This is very different from the roghun-rich tala gosht from Rampur. Method Clean, trim, wash and pat dry the pasanda. Prepare a marinade with garlic ginger pastes, dahi, powdered spices and salt. Apply this generously to the meat and keep aside for at least four hours in a cold place, Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan and when it reaches smoking point, put in the bay leaf and other whole spices. When these begin to change colour, add onions. When the onions turn from translucent to light pink add the meat along with the marinade. Bring to boil, reduce to medium heat and cook covered for about 20 minutes. Stir regularly, scraping the bottom. Sprinkle a little water if the pasanda appears to stick to the pan. Simmer uncovered for five more minutes. Tale pasande don't have much gravy but they should retain some moisture and be draped in thick sauce to regale you with succulence. Sprinkle a few drops of kewra water or enjoy the tale pasande and rejoice in simple pleasures of life.
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Ingredients