Food Talk

Tori in a new avatar
Pushpesh Pant

WHO says that those who are non-vegetarians do not love vegetables. As a matter of fact, we have a number of friends who love to enjoy both at the same time. Much before the qormas and the curries, with grand-sounding prefixes and suffixes had taken over the menus, many families cooked meat at home with seasonal vegetables to the delight of family members and the guests alike. Now outlets like Karims' include aloo gosht or tamatar gosht for name sake. But these are not the sabzis we are talking about. We begin to drool at the mere mention of bhindi gosht, gobhi gosht or tori gosht. (We are deliberately leaving out shalgam gosht and shab deg as they are a different story. And saag gosht that continues to thrive at many a roadside dhaba, though the quality is not always consistent)

The first time we tasted tori gosht, it was cooked by our friend Atul Rai, alias Munnu, who called it nonia ka salan. We loved tender tori, popularly known as nonia, in Awadh and eastern Uttar Pradesh, unadorned with just the tempering of jeera and absolutely no spices. We could not imagine how the pairing enhanced the charm of both the turai and the meat. Munnu cooked the dish, following his mother's recipe, which is now lost much to our regret but then when we came across a packet of Pakistani masalas for tunna gosht, we were tempted to try it out with tori. Tunna, we are told, is an earthen pot used for slow cooking in West Punjab and traditionally this was the method to cook different salans with vegetables. The results worked fine and we are happy to share them with our readers.

Tori salan

Ingredients

Mutton, chops and shoulder 500 gm

Tori 750 gm

Medium-sized onions Two

Ginger-garlic paste 1 tbsp

Bay leaf One

Cloves Two

Cinnamon 1-inch piece

Brown cardamom 1

Jeera powder 1 tsp

Dhania powder 2 tsp

Haldi powder ¼ tsp

Freshly ground peeplee 1 tsp

Amchur powder ½ tsp

Oil Half cup

Salt To taste.

Method

Clean, wash and trim the meat. Peel and slice the onions finely. Scrape, wash and slice the tori in thick rounds. Heat oil in a thick bottomed pan and till smoking point. Reduce flame to medium add the bay leaf and the whole spices. When these change colour, add meat and stir fry till well brown. Add the onions along with the ginger-garlic paste, the powdered spices and salt. Put one cup of water and cook on pressure for five minutes. Let the pressure reduce on its own, uncover the cooker, add the tori and cook on medium flame till the gravy thickens.






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