Food Talk

Mouthwatering meat balls
Pushpesh Pant

The tract of land between Lucknow and Rampur, from the terai in the Himalyan foothills and the Ganga-Jumna Doab was till recently known as Rohilkhand. The name indicates that Rohillas — Afghan soldiers of fortune — once held sway here. While the Awadh region encompassing Lucknow and neighbouring areas is famous for its refined cuisine, the Rohilla repertoire has suffered inexplicable neglect. The nawabs who ruled Rampur belonged to the Shia sect, tracing descent to Persian ancestors and were generous patrons of art and music while their subjects had acquired the rustic manners and robust taste of the footloose and fancy-free Rohillas.

Some say that these were descendants of soldiers in Ahmed Shah Abdali’s army who preferred to stay back in the land of plenty rather than disappear with the loot. To cut a long story short, the fiercely independent sturdy Pathans were dreaded and demonised by the British and this is what seems to have ensured the oblivion of their legacy. Sambal, Moradabad, Amroha and Bareilly fall in this belt that shares much in common.

Much before we were introduced to the melt-in-the mouth, lighter than air, touch- me-not chhui mui ke kofte from Lucknow or encountered the sausage-shaped Kashmiri version, we were seduced by the Rohilla meat balls that have a no nonsense meaty bite in them. This recipe acknowledge our debt to Latif Miyan’s daughter-in-law from Shahjehanpur who treated us to these in childhood.

Method

Mix two teaspoon oil and all the powdered spices along with ground chana and salt and blend with the mince. Knead well, roll into small walnut-sized tight balls and keep aside for 30 minutes.

Heat oil in a pan till smoking point, reduce the flame to medium put in the bay leaf and whole spices. When these crackle put in garlic ginger paste and the onions. Fry till rich brown, remove a quarter and place on absorbent paper to remove excess fat. Whisk the dahi mix with a cup of water and, after reducing flame to low, pour in a slow steady stream stirring briskly all the while to avoid curdling. When the mixture is boiling gently, lower the kofte. Cook uncovered for about 20 minutes till gravy thickens. Top with fried onions, stir gently and serve.

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