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Jeddah is least likely to be on the wish list of tourists worldwide. It is, however, the gateway for those who would like to know and understand the Middle East better; manifesting many a surprise as the layers unfold The second largest Saudi Arabian city after the capital Riyadh, set by the Red Sea, it amazes with its cosmopolitan nature. Its claim to fame lies primarily as the gateway to Islam’s holiest city Mecca. Hajis flock here with a desire to visit the holy Kaba at least once in their lifetime. Devout Muslims circum-ambulate counter-clockwise the Kaba. This ritual is symbolic of angels walking around the throne of God; in essence seeking to be in the presence of God. Non-Muslims are prohibited from visiting Mecca. A few miles on the highway to Mecca is a sign-board signalling a straight ahead for Muslims and a U-turn for non-Muslims. The law also prohibits women from driving, hence a ‘chauffeur’ is needed. Also women are only allowed to be accompanied by a father, husband, brother or son. The restrictive rules governing entry to Mecca were a dichotomy to the beaches visitors dined at. Corniche Beach had many a women, clad in a hijaab/burqah, frolicking in the water, nary a care in the world. Children built castles in the sand. A visitor’s astounded gaze could take this in from any open air restaurant on a beach where the maitre’d would offer you a hookah and a delectable Middle Eastern menu to choose from. Beyond the beach, spouted a fountain visible from most areas of the city. Jeddah boasts the highest fountain in the world, King Fahd Fountain; a major landmark built in the 1980s and listed by the Guinness World Records organisation as the highest water jet in the world at 312 metres. The Sunflower Field Fountain is exceptional too. Created by a Finnish woman Eila Hiltunen, the non-corrosive stainless steel flowers seem wistful and lifelike as these are gently sprayed by mist from the base. The Saudis have a penchant for recreating mini oases in the desert sands and large palaces by the Red Sea. Jeddah Royal Palace had won the Aga Khan award for architecture in the 1980s. The exquisite white Floating Mosque has Red Sea waves lashing it at high tide and is a must see. It is open to followers of all faiths. The oil boom of the 1970s and 1980s saw a desire to encourage public art, bagging Jeddah the trophy for the largest number of art works installed. Presently, there are more than 300 sculptures and monuments on display. Though the first artist chosen by the city’s mayor was Abdulhalim Radwi, other artists such as Alexander Calder, Henry Moore, Joan Miró, Cesar Baldaccini and Victor Vasarely were invited to create. Since Islamic tradition prohibits the depiction of living creatures, the sculptures often depict elements of traditional Saudi culture like coffee pots, stain-glass lanterns (the world’s largest glass formations that look prettiest when lit at night) and incense burners to the completely bizarre; a mounted defunct propeller plane, a humongous bronze fist, a giant geometry set, a block of concrete with several cars protruding out of it at odd angles, a giant bicycle, a map of Jeddah, etc. A huge favourite with tourists is the Cosmos sculpture, designed by German artist Ottmar Hollmann. A number of these sculptures are incongruously parked at roundabouts. As for museums other than open air art, Abdul Raouf Khalil Museum housed in heritage buildings showcases their history in three sections; the first highlights the lives of the early tribes, the second section contains artefacts of the Ottoman Turks who conquered Jeddah in the early 16th century and the third traces developments after the World War I. Municipality Museum is unique and houses rare photographs. Made by fishermen in red coral, it was restored by the British after the World War I. T.S. Lawrence (of Arabia) stayed here in 1917. Although the Champs Elysees of Jeddah is Tahlia Street, no visit to Jeddah is complete till you scour its old town market in Al-Balad. The souk has all things Arabic one may choose from; gaudy gold jewellery for those inclined towards the metal, prayer rugs with typical Medina designs, attar perfumes, dates and a range of dry fruits and condiments. Do familiarise yourself with the prayer timings as all establishments shut shop for the duration of the prayers five times a day.
Factfile How to reach: Direct flights from New Delhi and Mumbai. Best time to visit: September to March. Places of interest: Castle of Cultural Arts Museum is privately owned by Saudi musician Tarik Abdul Hakeem and shows the history of music; Jeddah Science and Technology Museum; Pasha Mosque Museum etc. Advisory: Saudi Arabia has a strict dress code and public behaviour norms that must be followed at all times, especially for women travellers; wear an abaya (cloak-like garment) when in public, use the segregated family rooms in restaurants and remember women can only be accompanied by a male, who is either the father, brother, husband or son.
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