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Lau in Bengali is the good old lauki. The poor gourd is considered an avoidable vegetable by most of us - prescribed only for the aged and infirm or ailing. The Awadhi bawarchi and Kashmiri waza have tried valiantly to refine recipes for musallam and dum to elevate the squashes status but in the process, the water rich doodhiya loses its identity. The palate is either overpowered by the rich spicy stuffing or the health-conscious are put off by the scary roghan. We are very fond of lauki and consume it in any form. Be it tempered with cumin seeds or shaped as kofta, we find it irresistible. The non-vegetarian duet it plays with prawns and shrimps in lau chingri is the delicacy that introduced us to the magic lauki can conjure in the land of mishti and maacch. It came as a pleasant surprise that the denizens of Bengal use spicy lentil dumplings to flavour some dishes like the people of Kashmir. Bori adds value to subzi and isn't eaten by itself unlike the Punjab and Hindi Heartland. Lau-Borhi is a variation well worth trying in summer months when other out-of-season vegetable prices soar skywards. Easy to cook, tasty and can be eaten to heart's content without any pangs of guilt, it seems tailor-made for days to come.
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