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IT is said that in this age of widespread travel, remote corners of the world have lost their isolation and there is nothing to discover anyway. But even then there are some places, which seem somewhat off the beaten track. Majuli in Assam is such a place, an island in the heart of the Brahmaputra River, which seems to be caught in a time warp. It has long been known as the largest inhabited river island in the world though the fact has been challenged by an island in South America in recent times. Be that as it may, Majuli’s reputation has now reached even beyond the borders as a unique place and heritage centre. In historical books Majuli was mentioned as Ratanpur or Ratnapur, a place highly suitable for agriculture, and which also served as a stopover for boats laden with goods sailing upstream and downstream the Brahmaputra. Those were the days when the river served as the main thoroughfare — both for ferrying goods and travellers. Majuli’s main fame is due to its position as a centre of Vaishnavite culture, which took root in Assam during the Middle Ages. Sankardev, a guru, social reformer and creative genius, introduced the doctrine of egalitarianism and simple rituals when common people were getting weary of the excesses of ritualistic religion. The powerful Ahoms ruled Assam at that time. Today, even after centuries, Sankardev’s teachings and simple way of worshipping Lord Krishna are meticulously followed in essence and spirit at the satras or monasteries of Majuli. There are around 22 satras in Majuli today though there were many more before. Among them Kamalabari, Auniati, Gorumurah, Dakhinpat, Samaguri are more famous. These are repositories of art and culture, too, as Sankardev wrote plays on the life of Krishna, composed devotional songs, choreographed dances and introduced percussion orchestras to attract the people to his simple doctrine. These ways proved very effective as most of them were illiterate but could easily relate to the performances. Satriya dance is now part of the Indian classical dance milieu. Masks, cane and bamboo articles and the beautiful hand-woven clothes, mainly mekhela-chador — the two piece ensemble Assamese women wear, produced by Mising women, a local tribe, are famous from Majuli. In olden times, elephant tusk artefacts were common, and Majuli had its own craft tradition. Some of the samples can be seen at the museum at Auniati satra. Priceless manuscripts written on sanchi-paat (bark leaf), instruments used during the plays (bhaona), indigenous masks, paintings on wood, huge utensils in brass, palanquins are displayed here. However, there is also apprehension that these satras and unique heritage will cease to be one day. Because, erosion has taken a toll on Majuli for many years now and some experts say the island might disappear from the face of the earth. Records show the land mass in 1950 was 1,246 sq km, today it has shrunk to 480 sq km. All the more reason why tourists and devotees make a beeline to the island, particularly during the Raas festival in November, when special performances are put up by individual satras. As we waited to board a ferry, actually a bigger version of a boat, at Nimatighat to go to Majuli — it was quite quaint sight as cars, motorcycles and people piled up in the boat. Majuli has quite few ghats. It depends on where you want to go and board that particular ferry. The sun beat on miles of sand through which we drove before hitting the road to Kamalabari, the hub of Majuli. The road was bumpy to say the least but the landscape was beautiful. Lush vegetation dotted with betelnut orchards, thatched cottages on stilts belonging to Misimi people, the satras with their age-old wood-painted doors, the bhakts (followers) in white clothes, the sound of the cymbals and drums in the distance as a kirtan was underway somewhere, made it seem like a world away from the hullabaloo of city life. Majuli indeed seemed like an island of serenity. A visit to Majuli can be combined with a trip to Kaziranga National Park, famous for the one-horned rhino and its rich bio-diversity, which is only one and half hours by road from Jorhat. On one side wildlife is at its pristine best, and on another, introduction to a lifestyle going on for centuries at satras — what more can you ask for at one go? Both are like balm to a soul. Fact File How to go: Jorhat is nearest airport and railhead. From Jorhat, it is one-hour drive to Nimatighat for ferries. Check ferry timings. The morning ferry for Kamalabari, is between 9 am and 10.30 am. From Majuli, ferry leaves from 3 pm to 4 pm. During the Raas festival frequency increases. In Majuli cars are available for hire. It is best, however, to hire a car from Jorhat to explore the island better. One-night stay is minimum. Where to stay: Guest house at Kamalabari satra. For reservation: 094352084871: Circuit house at Garamurh: Phone 03775-274424 What to see: Satras, performance of bhaona in the evening. What to buy: Hand-woven clothes, cane and bamboo articles.
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