The spa city

With its hot mineral springs, Karlovy Vary in the Czech Republic has been a favoured haunt of emperors, kings, Russian czars and Hollywood filmstars for a very long time, writes Tanushree Podder

THE beautiful Renaissance colonnade was teeming with people from all over Europe, enjoying what looked like a cup of tea from quaint, spouted porcelain cups. A closer look revealed they were enjoying the waters of hot spring that flowed out from a multitude of taps in the arcade. This was Karlovy Vary, the favourite spa city in Czech Republic.

Sitting in the midst of a verdant valley at the confluence of River Ohre and Tepl`E1 (warm), the place is a haven of peace and natural beauty. A surfeit of Baroque and Art Nouveau buildings add to the pastoral charm of the place, which has been a favoured haunt of emperors, kings, Russian czars and Hollywood film stars for a very long time. Not surprisingly a large number of sanatoriums have sprung up in the area and people flock to them for cures of all kinds of ailments. The spa water is marketed as the panacea for everything.

Accidentally discovered by Emperor Charles IV in the 14th century, during a hunting expedition, Karlovy Vary’s hot mineral springs have come a long way since then. Karlsbad (Charles’ Bath) is the Germanic name given to the place after Emperor Charles IV. Located just a stone’s throw away from the borders of Germany, it is not surprising that the Germans coveted the place and acquired it too. In 1938, it became part of Nazi Germany but was liberated after World War II. With the arrival of the communists in 1948, the spa springs and sanatoriums were nationalized. Naturally, it brought hordes of Russians to the place but when the Velvet Revolution happened in 1989, things were liberalised and the tourists from other countries began flocking to Karlovy Vary. Although there are people from all countries, it is mostly the Russians that make a beeline for this Spa City, in search of wellness. They are everywhere and you can hear more Russian than any other language.

Over the centuries, Karlovy Vary has seen many important emperors and queens treading its streets. Now, the International Film Festival held every July brings in important Hollywood stars, directors and producers.

The hour-long drive from Prague to the Western parts of Bohemia through beautiful countryside is a soothing balm on any travel weary soul. Shops in the quieter environs of Karlsbad sell quaint spouted cups, which serve both as a souvenir and a drinking vessel.

Ambling along its pedestrian-only-streets, one stumbles on many beautiful colonnades, which are the prime draw of the city. Constructed in the 19th century, there are five such colonnades — Mlyska Kolonada (Mill Colonnade), Sadova Kolonada (Park Colonnade), Trzni Kolonada (Market Colonnade), Zamecka Kolonada (Chateau Colonnade and Vridelni Kolonada (Hot Spring Colonnade). The Mill Colonnade, which houses five hot springs of varying temperatures, has 124 Corinthian columns and is a beautiful Neo-Renaissance construction. The rooftop is adorned with 12 sculptures and its inner space is decorated with allegorical sculptures. Balustrades of the rooftop terraces are decorated with 12 statues representing the twelve months of a year.

The Park Colonnade, with its three springs, dates back to 1880, and is a beauty created out of cast iron. Market Colonnade is a Swiss-style white wooden structure dating back a long time. The Thermal Colonnade with its fountain of hot water spurting up to 14 metres has a temperature of 72`B0C, and is believed to be very potent in curing all kinds of ailments ranging from the gastric to the dermatological ones.

Most visitors are also enchanted by the picturesque panorama punctuated with horse drawn carriages. With the river snaking right in the centre, ornate constructions dot the sides. The buildings and the atmosphere, everything speaks of a grand past. The 18th century spire of St Mary Magdalene Church loomed against the skyline. It bears the unmistakable stamp of Baroque architecture with a few Gothic touches. Even the hotels are adorned in similar style, giving a very Renaissance look to the entire city. Back in the 18th century, Karlovy Vary was a popular tourist destination with eminent visitors like Beethoven, Goethe, Mozart, Chopin, Kafka, Wagner, Brahms, Sigmund Freud and Karl Marx. Maybe,the composers and writers came here to be inspired by the beauty of the place.

The hills, with marked trails that hug the city for a 15-km radius, are a trekker’s delight. There is a funicular that takes people to a point that provides a panoramic view of the town and its surroundings.

Karlovy Vary is not just famous for its hot springs. The Bohemian crystals produced by Moser are a great draw as is the Becherovka (a herbal liquor), Oplatky wafers and Thun porcelain that have been acclaimed globally.

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