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Usually Dharamsala is known as the homeground of the Tibetan culture. But there is another equally fascinating Tibetan settlement called Bylakuppe in Karnataka near Bangalore. On way to Coorg, it is the second largest Tibetan settlement in India. When Tibetans began fleeing from Tibet, they established monasteries in the North as well as the South of India. Lugsung Samdupling, the Tibetan settlement at Bylakuppe was established in 1961, much before the other settlements came into existence in India. The Sera Je Monastic University at Bylakuppe is one of the largest Buddhist universities in India. What began as a small settlement has grown into mammoth one in the last few decades. The drive from Bangalore to Bylakuppe is a rewarding experience with picturesque scenery soothing the eyes. For those with time in their hands, Ranganthittoo, the bird sanctuary on the way, can be an interesting stopover.
The first indication of this little Tibet is the gleaming red and gold monastery that stands a couple of metres away from the road. It makes for a lovely photo opportunity. There are numerous small eating joints at the tiny bazaar that mainly deals with Tibetan stuff. A plateful of unpretentious vegetarian thopa makes for a delicious snack. Finally there is a glimpse of the Namdroling Monastery or the Golden Temple. The monastery houses hundreds of Buddhist monks. Half way to the monastery there is a nunnery overflowing with smiling nuns. A couple of old ladies sit swirling their prayer wheels and counting the holy beads. A religious fervour seems to emanate from everywhere. Burgundy robes of monks are visible from every corner. An awesome sight of the monastery greets the eyes. It is teeming with monks of all ages and sizes. Hordes of tourists are also there busy running around capturing the monastery from various angles into their cameras. The setting sun makes a lovely backdrop. It is prayer time and rows of young Buddhists sit cross-legged on the ground with scriptures before them, reading aloud in a sing-song manner while a few of them are striking at regular intervals on the mammoth gong that stands midway between the altar and the students. The Golden Temple is adorned with intricate patterns that depict the Buddhist religion. Bright colours interspersed with golden motifs arrest the eyes. Seated at the altar are daunting golden icons of Guru Padmasambhava, Sakyamuni and Amitayus. A hushed silence falls over the chirping visitors as they enter the temple and stand spellbound in the presence of one who attained enlightenment. After the prayers, it is teatime, and a few volunteer monks go around serving what seems like milk, to the students. An intense pitch of religious fervour is pervasive, as visitors feel involuntarily drawn into the process. Most seem immersed in the intonation of the religious Buddhist texts. The bliss experienced is unique. There are no intruding thoughts of negative kind as one looks at the setting sun behind the magnificent temple. Monks mill all around, their cheerful faces creased in incessant smile, prayer beads dangling from their hands. It is a world away from all mundane matters, a world of peace. The brief tryst with the Tibetan haven definitely managed to reignite spirituality.
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