Match clothes with built

Your couture is a reflection of your personality, says Shekher Phadnis

All of us men are not of the same physique, and it is important to bear in mind this factor when dressing up. Let us consider the various varieties. Short and stocky. If you are of this built, remember that dark colours are best for you. You can best experiment with monochromatic colours as they look good on you. But contrasting colours are a no no.

Tall and broad-shouldered men should go for dark-coloured clothes

Always prefer vertical stripes as they tend to give you a taller look. When it comes to prints, smaller prints are advisable, as well as geometrical prints. Loose fitted, over-sized shirts with dropping shoulders are not advisable as`A0they add to your bulk. Same caution is about very long kurtas, too, as they emphasise your shortness.

When choosing pants, light-coloured bottoms with a brighter top enables to make you look better. If you can opt out for dark-coloured pants or jeans, your fashion quotient increases. Flares in you pants have to be avoided, and opt out for straight fitting. You will find narrow fits better for your appearance. When it comes to jackets and waistcoats, it is better to avoid these garments as our aim is to try and avoid adding bulk near the waist. As such if you have to wear a jacket, ensure that it is of two-button type and is made of lighter fabrics.

Tall and broad shouldered. Well, most of us do not belong to this category. But if you are lucky, then it is the most ideal body type and you can carry off with couture, which other less fortunately endowed will find it difficult. So, naturally, you have more scope of experimenting with colours and fits. Still, there are some rules to be followed. In case you want to look slimmer, wear a lot of dark colours; if you want to add volume, go light.

In the shirts’ category, earthy tones are great and if, possible, they should go for deep black maroon or other colours. It is necessary that the fit near the shoulders should be just right-perfect to be precise. Tight-fitting shirts or shirts with drooping shoulders do not look good; horizontal stripes are a no not for you.

All trouser styles will suit you. Avoid boot cuts. You can go for a narrow fit or patches on your pocket. Even six pockets go well. Contrast earthy-toned shirts with neutral- coloured pants. Experiment with khakis and chinos as these flatter your body type; generally keep the trousers in lighter shades. In jackets lighter`A0tones are the best, and keep the fit a little slimmer near the waist. You can experiment with two- buttoned, three-buttoned or even four-buttoned jackets.

Shoes can be as trendy as possible but avoid shoes which are very thick on the heels or soles. Sports shoes look good and lend a very athletic look. Pointed toe shoes also gel well, but you need a rather stylish edge to pull these off. However, pointed toes aren’t advisable for formal dresses.

Wearing dark-coloured shirts is a good option. Avoid big prints and detailing on shirts. Stay away from horizontal stripes; instead, try narrow, vertical stripes. While wearing casuals, try to layer the look – like wearing a T-shirt with a shirt on top as a jacket. Don’t tuck your shirts in.

Trousers should be in dark colours, with a narrow or slim cut fit.  Though dark, your trousers should match the shirt you have worn and not contrast (for example, don’t wear a light-coloured shirt with dark-coloured trousers). There should be no pocket patches on your pants. Chinos and khakis also flatter your built.  Avoid trousers`A0with a high waist. Jeans`A0should also have a straight fit. If you are thin, use bright colours. Wear light shades and experiment with horizontal and vertical`A0stripes; opt for multiple layering.

Flared jeans are completely hip. They flare from the knee and can be quite flattering.  If your silhouette is bigger from the waist up, flared jeans can create balance and more than a little style. — MF