The city of lakes

The Old City of Udaipur is a fascinating study of dynamism and is pulsating with energy, writes Aradhika Sharma

The Lake Palace, constructed in white, glimmers in the sunshine, and is reflected in the waters of Lake

Udaipur has emerged as a prime tourist destination for people around the world and nowhere is the true mystique of the city as much evident as it is in the old city or the City Palace area.

Udaipur, like most old cities is now clearly divided into two distinct parts — the Old City and the more modern area, that has wide roads, big bungalows, and is as regular as most other urban centres, though the quintessential Udaipur does have a propensity of making itself felt even in these modern areas of flats and shopping malls.

However, the Old city, that has come up around the huge and awesome City Palace, has dynamism, particularly its own, and is pulsating with energy that essentially has a mixed character of local-ness and internationality. Long, winding roads lead up to the old city. You have to go through Bara Pol (Great Gate) to get into the Old City. An auto is best get here because of the narrow roads, the local crowds and the amazing number of cows that wander around. The auto driver, as most people in this particular area, will also promote some shops or merchandise and will most likely speak a smattering of ‘Italiano, Espanola, and Hebrew’. It’s all a part of the flourishing tourist trade.

The magnificent City Palace complex was built by Maharana Udai Singh

The Old City is located on the banks of Lake Pichola, the oldest and one of the largest lakes of Udaipur. Pichola Lake is surrounded by lofty palaces, temples, bathing ghats and elevated hills on all sides. The ghats in the morning are a sight to watch for. Not too clean though, the ghats are divided into the woman’s’ section where you’ll find local ladies bathing and washing the laundry, and the men’s section where the local lads dive and frolic! Built inside the Lake is the sparkling Hotel Taj. The building, constructed in white, is reflected in the lake waters.

Move on ahead, up the winding roads and there is the gorgeous Jagdish temple! The temple, built by Maharana Jagat Singh in 1651, is made in the Indo-Aryan style of architecture. It was built at a cost of Rs 1.5 million. A steep flight of stairs takes one to this marvelously carved temple. At the bottom of the stairs are flower and incense sellers. Local people visit all day to venerate the deity. One also comes across many swamis and sadhus chanting and meditating. Some of them willingly pose for pictures and may ask you to pay for their pose! Keep some change!

On the same long and winding Palace Road, is a tiny little, ancient shop manned by an ancient, one toothed gentleman, who makes the most delicious namkeens and kalakand. You can’t miss him because people are always queuing up before his shop. His kalakand is a bit liquid in texture and simply delicious! "Fridge mein rakhoge toh ek ghante ki guarantee nahin deta- Bahar rakhoge toh, mahine ki guarantee deta hoon!’ he declares. There are other little shacks and restaurants where you would get local delicacies- mirchi vadas, poha, kachori, jalebi, lassi! They are worth sampling.

A view of Jagdish temple Photo by the writer

Across the mithai maker, on a floor above a restaurant that makes the most delecious mango lassi, is a miniature-painting maker. "My paintings range from Rs 500 to Rs 5 lakh, madame," he claims. Miniature painting is an art form practiced in the region and these are available in many shops and boutiques. Small shops dot the streets towards the palace. One can buy bags and leather diaries, paintings, miniatures, contemporary art, marble handicrafts, metal furniture, silver jewellery, fabric, carpets and rugs. Just make sure to bargain hard!

And finally, at the end of the road is the magnificent City Palace complex, built by Maharana Udai Singh as the capital of the Sisodia Rajput clan in 1559. There is an entry ticket. The counter is swarming with tourist guides, ready to besiege tourists. However, the palace is quite enormous, so it is better to hire one. The flamboyant palace, a fusion of the Rajasthani and Mughal architectural styles, is considered the largest of its type in Rajasthan.

It was built by 21 kings, successors of Maharana Udai Singh, over a period of 300 years; it’s full of art and breathtaking architecture. Gorgeous art and nakkashi, alleys and tunnels; palkis and arches; historical artifacts — the palace can intimidate you with its splendor and majesty.

There are some shops stocking beautiful jewellery at the Palace itself, worth browsing.

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