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Rogan josh is the quintessential mutton dish that has the imprint of Kashmir deeply embossed on it. It does not claim to be a korma from the imperial dastarkhaan but has successfully held on its own against all pretentious rivals for generations. There was a time before Partition when this delicacy, along with a well-made`A0shami`A0kebab,`A0occupied the pride of place on the well-heeled Punjabi gentleman’s table. Rarha meat was considered much too rustic to be offered to guests. As years passed, different curries popular with the British masters made inroads into the Indian kitchen but we digress. To return to rogan josh, the signature dish owes its name to extra ruddy complexion that is a gift of ratanjot (cock’s comb flower). The Pandits, who had their home in the Valley, prepared rogan josh eschewing onion and garlic and flavoured it with dried fennel and ginger powder. There was also a hint of asafoetida that lent it unique character. However, this was the recipe for the purist. We have greatly enjoyed rogan josh at roadside`A0dhabas`A0that was enriched with onions, garlic and tomatoes. Another characteristic of traditional rogan josh is that it has almost no gravy — just the colourful fat floating on the plate that is part of its name. This is the reason the health-conscious have been avoiding it in recent years. We are delighted to share a recipe with our readers, which lightens the dish fat-wise but darkens the colour without the ratanjot that is hard to come by. The trick use for the treat is good old beetroot.
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