The beetroot effect

The fat-free chukandar rogan josh is sure to delight the health conscious

Rogan josh is the quintessential mutton dish that has the imprint of Kashmir deeply embossed on it. It does not claim to be a korma from the imperial dastarkhaan but has successfully held on its own against all pretentious rivals for generations. There was a time before Partition when this delicacy, along with a well-made`A0shami`A0kebab,`A0occupied the pride of place on the well-heeled Punjabi gentleman’s table.

Rarha meat was considered much too rustic to be offered to guests. As years passed, different curries popular with the British masters made inroads into the Indian kitchen but we digress.

To return to rogan josh, the signature dish owes its name to extra ruddy complexion that is a gift of ratanjot (cock’s comb flower). The Pandits, who had their home in the Valley, prepared rogan josh eschewing onion and garlic and flavoured it with dried fennel and ginger powder. There was also a hint of asafoetida that lent it unique character. However, this was the recipe for the purist.

We have greatly enjoyed rogan josh at roadside`A0dhabas`A0that was enriched with onions, garlic and tomatoes. Another characteristic of traditional rogan josh is that it has almost no gravy — just the colourful fat floating on the plate that is part of its name. This is the reason the health-conscious have been avoiding it in recent years.

We are delighted to share a recipe with our readers, which lightens the dish fat-wise but darkens the colour without the ratanjot that is hard to come by. The trick use for the treat is good old beetroot.

Chukandar rogan josh

Ingredients

Mutton (culled from shanks and shoulder) 500g

Beetroot 250 gm

Dried ginger powder 1 tsp

Fennel powder 1 tsp

Kashmiri red chillies ½ tsp

Kashmiri garam masala ½ tsp

Mustard oil ½ cup

A pinch of hing

Salt to taste

Method

Wash, peel and quarter the beetroot. Wash and pat dry the meat trim. Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan till it reaches smoking point. Then, lower heat to medium. Dissolve the hing in little water and put in the oil. Stir briskly. Add red chilli powder and follow immediately with the meat pieces. Stir and cook for about 15 minutes till the mutton becomes well brown and the raw smell is gone. Now put in the chukandar, along with the powered spices and salt. Stir to blend. Add a couple of spoonfuls of water, if required. Cover and cook on low heat for another 15 minutes or till the meat is done. If you like some more gravy, you may slowly stir in half a cup of dahi during the second half of cooking. Just ensure that the dahi is cooked.





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