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It is a breathtaking scene, as innumerable earthen lamps float away on River Ganga. The ghats of Varanasi come alive with thousands of shimmering diyas. This is a unique tribute by the people of the city to the holiest of rivers on the occasion of Kartik Purnima, which is celebrated in the city as Dev Deepawali.
This spectacle on the full moon night leaves one spell bound and privileged, as this unique, spiritual and cultural legacy of Dev Deepawali is a celebration of light, joy, spiritual journey and is a living tradition of the ancient city Varanasi, considered to be one of the oldest living cities in the world. Against the backdrop of the illuminated Ganga Ghat, the rising full moon is an experience beyond narration. Celebrated on the occasion of Kartik Purnima on the 15th day after Diwali, there is a general belief that on this auspicious day gods descend on earth to take a dip in the holy Ganga. The gods are welcomed amid lights and bursting of crackers. According to one school of thought, gods observed Kartik Purnima as a day of victory, to celebrate the death of demon Tripurasur by Lord Shiva. That is why this festival is called Dev Deepavali. This festival also finds a mention in the epic Mahabharata. According to another legend, the first ruler of Kashi (Varanasi), Debodasa, was annoyed with the gods and goddesses, for some reason. The angry king banned their entry into the city. Thee gods, however, disguised themselves and came for a holy dip at the Panchganga ghat, where four rivers meet with the Ganga. After some persuasion, the king allowed the gods and goddesses to come to Varanasi to celebrate Kartika Purnima. Since then, Dev Deepawali is celebrated here every year. Interestingly, Kartik Purnima also coincides with the Jain light festival and Guru Nanak jayanti. Preceding the Dev Deepawali is a four-day Ganga Mahotsava showcasing the rich cultural heritage of this multifaceted city. Usually held on the Dasaswamedh Ghat, the mahotsav is organised by the UP Tourism Department. This cultural extravaganza of classical music and dance recitals on the resplendent ghats by the most renowned artists of the country is a must on the calendar of a cultural connoisseur. Most of the famous artistes feel honoured to be a part of this mahotsava. Devotees start assembling in the city from the day of the Prabodhini ekadashi (the eleventh day of the fortnight). On the eve of Kartik Purnima, the number of visiting pilgrims multiplies with most preferring to camp next to the river. The devotees and local populace spend hours creatively decorating the entire riverbank with tiny earthen lamps. The twinkling and floating lights give the occasion a dazzlingly and mystic aura. The picturesque Ganga-aarti is the central event of the evening. Each ghat organises its own unique ceremony. Huge lamps are lit up and priests hold forth huge burning lamps as the multitude chants the hymns. Thousands of lamps are set ablaze and are flown on the Ganga. Dev Deepavali symbolises enlightenment, existence of life, sign of immortality, and triumph of good over evil. Breathing this incense-filled air and witnessing the glimmer of dancing lights is truly a one-of-its-kind experience.
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