Creations that rock

Designers find that they have to take the risk of experimenting for the GenX with new styles and looks, says Sita Mehta 

there has been a sea change in the approach of Indian fashion maestros, namely, that of originality. Yes they are now looking inwards, gathering inspiration from our ethnic sources, rather than adapting western catalogues. As a result, for this year’s festival season, we have in the market a lot of traditional cotton weaves, indigenous silks like tusser with its beautiful textures decorated with phul butis.

The season is marked by a sudden surge of creative energy on the fashion front Photo: MF

The fashion designers have even brought out boot-cut trousers and cigarette pants in our jute and khadi. Let us agree, in colours like dark burgundy, these innovations look glamorous and fashionable.

Due to the high price of gold and silver ornaments, especially of the oxidised variety, armlets, bracelets, rings and earrings are back in full strength. Current hairstyles also have taken a modern hue ranging from slender twirls and light perms to more sophisticated designer plumage and art deco headgear — often whacky!

The 2011 Diwali is marked by a sudden surge of creative energy at the fashion front, says Anju Chotrani, a Mumbai based boutique owner, and adds: "Designers find that they have to take the risk of experimenting for the Generation X with new styles and looks, as repeating old styles and copying has become taboo."

"These efforts are creating a lot of colour in the air," says Vishnu Ghatge, a design consultant. Adventure is in the air this Diwali season and modern gals and boys want to make smart choices, while ensuring that they do not go overboard in their innovations. Yes, for Diwali everybody wants a modern variation of traditional Indian dressing. 

This has led to saris being the topmost in the list. Says Nirmala Mathen, dress consultant to Bollywood stars: " Our national dress for women looks colourful and right for all occasions, and is a real break from the salwar kameez and trouser jacket, that has become an everyday dress for the working woman." 

Happily, the combination options in saris are countless in material and style. For example, Rani Chowhdury, fashionista of Kolkata, has introduced the crushed tissue saris, with heavy tone on tone embroidery. These are pleated at the centre as is usual, and wrapped around the waist. She has also ensured that there is enough length to wrap the sari around shoulders as a stole. If you wear it with a halter top embroidered with beads or pearls, you get a dress with an elegant/ornate look.

Smita Bhargave of Ornate creations, Mumbai, has brought out a double sari combinations that is novel and appealing. It consists of a net number, fully embroidered and teamed with a crushed mehendi sari, which has complimentary shades of dark green/red/blue. This has to be worn with a full-sleeve top, embellished with beads and dull gold sequins. 

In Bangalore fashion designer Mullika Dhodi has brought a series that combines plain lurex georgette with net drapes. This is to be pleated over the left shoulder showing off a matching bustier made of lycra. If you want simpler designs, then you have big bordered saris of cotton or silk, decorated with moderate embroidery. This is again to be worn with matching sleeveless blouse of silk, preferably with pearl embroidery.

Somehow pearl embroidery seems to have quite a number of devotees and you find even nine-yard georgette saris or white chiffons worn as sarong skirts with pearl embroidery. Another favourite combination is crushed tissue saris but without borders. You have to turn it over the shoulders to wear as a stole.

Of course, gowns are replacing saris even in weddings, and gowns with boat necks, embellished with wooden beadwork/crystal are popular. Here the type of reverse hand appliqu`E9 work of Ahmedabad known as katav karn seems to be very popular and you can have suede tops with this kind of embroidery. Some times the fashionistas prefer to be seen in one-piece gowns of the lycra and velvet.

Fashion designers have not forgotten the salwar kemeez, too, as one sees quite a number of boutique shops showing hand-woven silk items.

Kantha stitches or quilting also provides the traditional salwar kameez with a grand canvas of traditional crafts.

As in every season, jewellery is the final arbiter of fashion and you have a grand mixture of delicately crafted silver/brass/copper that are delightful to wear. Sport enthusiasts, too, have their say and have jewellery made of steel and fiberglass. — MF