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At no time, the Bengalis’ fondness for good food is more noticeable than during the four-day autumn festival of Durga Puja. Along with the festive shopping, a list of foods, to be had during the puja days, at home or in restaurants offering traditional fare, is carefully drawn up. Certain days are reserved for certain dishes. On vegetarian days like Saptami or the first day of the puja (though traditionally it is Sasthi — the previous day when devi is welcomed to earth that is regarded as the first day of puja), the favourite items are luchi (smaller than a poori) and alur dum (potato curry) or radhaballavi (stuffed poori) with cholar daal (chana dal with saut`E9ed coconut pieces). Plain rice is often accompanied by bhaja mooger dal (moong dal roasted before cooking), beguni, slices of brinjal dipped in mix of gram dal flour, mocha (banana flower) chop, dhokar dalna (square pieces made of gram dal paste and fried to make a curry)
These days para pujo or community puja is a big thing. This food is offered to the goddess before being partaken by the devotees. Khichri, made with rice and moong dal, labda (mixed vegetable), potoler dorma (stuffed parwal), sweet chutney with tomato, payesh (rice pudding or kheer) are served. The vegetarian fare shuns onion and garlic, only ginger is allowed. Bengali food without sweets is almost a sacrilege. While it is more well-known for its rosogollas outside the state, an astonishing variety of sandesh, made with cottage cheese, and fried sweets are available round the year. Every region of Bengal has its own specialty, like Bardhaman has its mihidana, Shaktigarh its lengcha, Nadia its sar-bhaja, etc. During the puja these days big confectioners in Kolkata come up with new concoctions and advertise these stridently to attract customers. So mishti doi — the famous sweet curd of Bengal and other sweets after the puja lunch or dinner make for a sweet ending. On the last day of the puja — Bijoya (Dussehra) dashmi, having sweets is almost a ritual and while visiting friends and relatives it is mandatory to take along a box of sweets.
On Asthami and Nabami day, Bengalis usually take non-vegetarian food. Kosha mangsho (mutton curry) with rice or luchi is a great favourite. Instead of plain dal, it could be muri ghonto or dal with fish head. That brings to the fore the all-important fish. After all, Bengalis are known for their weakness to fish curry and rice. Prawn malai curry with coconut milk extract is a cherished item as also fish fry (from bhetki fillet) during the festivities. Various kinds of fishes like pabda, rohu, katla, are cooked in different styles according to taste. Some prized fish dishes are doi maach, (rohu fish pieces marinated in curd and cooked lightly), and paturi (fish fillets marinated in mustard paste, wrapped in banana leaf and steamed). The medium of cooking for fish is usually mustard oil. Observing the growing interest in traditional Bengali food, some restaurants in Kolkata serve exclusively bangali khabar during the puja days. Among them Kewpie’s, 6 Ballygunge Place (with branches), Bhojohori Manna (branches), Oh! Calcutta are well known. They offer special thali, as also a la carte menu, both vegetarian and non-vegetarian, during the festive days. Jumping on the bandwagon, reputed multi-cuisine restaurants and many restaurants in starred hotels also announce special Bengali menu during the festive days, which have become quite popular too. — RB
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A
festival without sumptuous food? Are you kidding? A Bengali is very
likely to retort. The vast repertoire of vegetarian and non-vegetarian
dishes, which a Bengali even from an ordinary household can cook, is
quite enviable. From traditional dishes to innovations from the kitchen
of the Thakur Bari (house of the illustrious Tagores), the Bengali food
palette is a gourmand’s delight
