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Near Sobhabazar in Kolkata, lie the clay-muddled pathways of Kumartuli that houses hundreds of artisans who design the Durga idols for homes and the puja pandals around the country, making Durga Pujo a pride of the Bengalis.
One can almost sense the stories around about the traditional ways of the craftsmen who create the clay masterpieces with an awe-inspiring diligence each year. The year was 1757 and the defeat of Bengal was followed by the birth of the ancient metropolis of Calcutta in whose lap Kumartuli was established when the British East India Company set up separate districts for its workmen. In the late 19th century, however, with the invasion of Burrabazar, most of the artisans were flushed out and it was then that they started fashioning idols for rich; thus giving birth to the place with which we are so familiar today. What had once begun as a bane was transformed a hundred years later into the boon of a thriving artistry. The human birthplace of familiar gods has a sense of unfamiliar nostalgia, as our ancestors must have once gazed with wonder at the chapped hands that shaped the clay models for centuries.
These streets were laid hundreds of years ago. Most the lanes are covered with tar now but that musky scent of the river clay remains a mute witness to history. Despite the hectic schedules of these adroit limners, with Durga Pujo so near, some find time to have a little chat. One of them is 69-year-old Ram Chandra Pal, whose family has been creating idols for eight generations. "First we tie the hay, then we apply coats of enetel mati (a type of river clay, which is adhesive in nature) to form the basic shapes and after that we plaster the idol using bele mati (another type of river clay). This is followed by painting it with colours. The process takes a few days depending upon the size of the idol being produced," explains Pal. It is amazing to learn that the birth of such majestic shapes is made possible through the use of the humblest of raw materials from the paraphernalia of the artisans of Kumartuli — clay and hay. Babui Pal, the 21-year-old nephew of Ram Chandra Pal has a mind-boggling experience of 10 years, which proves the fact that learning this craft takes time and patience and hence an early start is preferred. However, with decreasing profits and increasing prices this ancient trade is now under threat and many prospective talents are alienated by the aggressive challenges that return inadequate remuneration.
It is not all dark and gloomy though; big bucks are still available for those with ability and talent, and there is a continued influx of new enthusiastic people who do this out of love. A good example of this is Prabir Das, who entered the profession after his father’s death but claims that he did so only because he loves making clay sculptures. "I am the first person in my family ever to have started making idols and I do this only because it is something I love to do," says Das, who hails from Nawadeep. Das, however, echoes the lament of several other artisans who have to make do with ever-prevalent poor working conditions every year despite continued promises of improvement. "The electricity goes out for several minutes at a time causing so many problems and then there are other difficulties too. I don’t know what this new government will do for us but I hope they do something fast," Das remarks. After hearing Das’s complaints reiterated by many others, the initial excitement and wonder is marred by a sense of pathos for those that bring smiles to thousands of faces during the festivals and for whom we do so little in return. But the shop of Mohan Banshi Rudra Pal is an instant spirit booster as one glances at the old-school images of goddess Durga with her captivating eyes and with the demon lord bowing before her prowess. A slew of childhood memories are invoked about a Kolkata of bygone years. This trip to the past can only be compared to an adventure to Alice’s wonderland or Robinson Crusoe’s island; something we visit in our fantasies and yet can never tread upon in reality. Round the corner, there is an exquisite display of dexterous workmanship. This idol is different from traditional ones in capturing the magnificent image of Durga by portraying her with a background of the sun and its protruding flames. Bibhas Banerjee, its creator, explains that it was being made for a theme puja; the new genre of idol making that is becoming increasing popular in the city. "This profession is not only my source of bread and butter but it is something which I find spiritually rewarding and artistically enriching," Banerjee says. There are a few more theme figurine, including a stunning white idol made of fibre glass. As the night descends, it is time to say goodbye to the lanes of Kukartuli. This journey through the boulevards and streets of the potter quarters of Kolkata has been a walk through the 250 years of its past. But the sights, scents and memories of the present-day Kumartuli will remain etched in mind for it is a place where men make gods come to life.— TWF
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