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The Indian sari has its own image in different parts of the country, ranging from the plain gold bordered sari of Kerala (three days to make one) to the costly Paithani of Maharashtra, which takes often an year to weave. Pattern and content are often dictated by the traditions of the region where the sari is produced.`A0But to the Indian lady, a really rich sari means it should be either`A0Benarsi brocades or the Kanchipuram`A0silk ones from the temple town of Kanchipuram in South India.
But how do we compare`A0these fabulous fabrics?`A0Before we go to the task, it is interesting to compare the historical background of these two saris. Banaras is one of the rich weaving craft centres of India, famous for brocade saris. Earlier, it was famous for weaving of cotton saris but with due course of time, it changed to silk weaving, and later during the 14th century it started weaving of brocades with intricate designs, using gold and silver threads. Brocade weavers of Banaras added a sense of festivity by weaving patterns in colourful silk threads and zari. Jangla brocades`A0with the scrolling and spreading vegetation motif is the oldest form of Banaras brocades. Again, the renowned zari brocade weavers of Banaras have evolved a technique of weaving tissue material, which looks like gold cloth. The weavers, who are usually Muslims, are famed for producing some temple brocades so stiff with gold that they cannot be used as garments and are reserved wholly for ritual temple use. Along with their very intricate patterns, the most interesting aspect of Banaras brocades is the`A0multiplicity of silk yarns with which they are woven. Ranging from heavy silks such as Jamawars and Tanchois to gossamer fine organzas and tissues, the choice is mind-boggling. One interesting feature of`A0present-day designs in Benarsi saris is that they are said to be mostly derived from a catalogue of colourful wall papers, which one famous weaver of`A0Banaras brought from London, where he was the honoured guest for the diamond jubilee celebrations of Queen Victoria in 1897. Kanchipuram handlooms are as old as the Pallava royal dynasty, which ruled the area in the 6th to 8th century AD.`A0Today`A0Kanchipuram`A0is synonymous with hand-woven silk`A0saris and known for its dark, heavy silks, usually with flat stripes of gold decorating the borders. These conservative designs are considered to be more restrained and dignified than the occasionally flamboyant Benarsi sari. These saris are bold and bright coloured, favoured by almost every Indian woman.`A0They have a fine silk background, and their patterns display a predominance of bird and animal motifs. Unmatched craftsmanship, beauty and grandeur of the gold thread work makes a propitious amalgam to make these saris timeless.`A0Recently the Kanchipuram`A0sari has changed its colours, and instead of the`A0traditional colours, in all their voluptuous glory, the more fashionable combinations of peach, rose, cream, white, black that have more national and international appeal have emerged. The costliest silk saris produced at this fabulous silk town are in the range of Rs 100,000 to 1,25,000 with zari work all over. More than 5000 families and over 10,000 handlooms are now engaged in the handloom industry at Kanchipuram that offers sustenance to over 50,000 people. The unique feature which helps to identify Kanchipuram silk saris is that the borders have been woven separately and then attached. In Benarsi saris the border is woven with the main body. Another very distinctive feature of the Kanchipuram saris, as opposed to those from other parts of India (like Banaras), is the contrasting colour of the border and the pallav, as compared to the body of the sari. — MF`A0
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