Chugging down the memory track

The introduction of bullet train services from Beijing to Shanghai reminds Maj-Gen G. G. Dwivedi (retd) of his maiden train journey in China, more than a decade back


The bullet train was started to mark the 90th anniversary of the Chinese Communist Party;
(and right) a view of the plush interiors of the train

THE engineering marvel of Qinghai-Lhasa railway line stands overshadowed with the introduction of bullet train services from Beijing to Shanghai. The train was started to mark the 90th anniversary of the Chinese Communist Party. It train covers a distance of 1,465 km in just five hours with a to and fro service almost every 15 minutes. During the next year the superfast train network will extend over 13,000 km. The introduction of this bullet train reminds me of my maiden train journey in China, more than a decade back.

To have a better feel of the countryside, we decided to travel by train from Guangzhou. It was a short hop from Hong Kong to Guangzhou. The modernity of erstwhile Canton was a stark indication of China’s rapid progress. As there were a few hours before the departure of train, we settled down in the waiting room; a highly professionally run facility. The standard of service was excellent, particularly the catering and luggage handling

Half an hour before the scheduled departure, there was an announcement to entrain. The interiors of the railway station were spick and span. The platforms were almost empty; so we sought confirmation from the help desk if there was a change in the schedule. The help desk informed that only bonafide ticket holders were allowed entry into the railway stations. On the platforms, a handful of vendors stood upright by their service trolleys at their designated locations, neatly dressed in white aprons and chef caps.

We were ushered into the compartment by a smartly attired train hostess in blue winter uniform. In the coupe, neatly laid out berths and a green tea tray greeted us. Our train tickets were taken away by the train hostess for safe custody, and we were issued tokens in lieu. A bugle call announced the departure of the train at precisely 2 a.m.. As the train chugged out of the station to the tune of the Chinese national anthem, the complete staff at the platform stood at perfect attention wishing the passengers a bon voyage.

In the morning, the train hostess treated us to a sumptuous breakfast. To burn out the calories, there was a surprise fitness session in the corridor, with train staffers in the lead. It was a sweet reminder of a physical fitness class during school days. The mobile library catered for the reading material, though books and other material were mostly in Chinese. In the evening, a brief entertainment programme was also put up by the cabin crew. The passengers were also encouraged to join the chorus singing. Many visitors were enamoured enough to take snaps with the cabin crew, who obliged after initial hesitation.

A visit to the pantry car was indeed a treat. There was variety of choices in the menu although the Chinese dishes here tasted quiet different from those available in India. In the pantry we also met many native fellow passengers who gave some valuable inputs about China, and in particular about Beijing. The acquaintances made during the brief interaction were later nurtured into warm friendships during our stay in China.

After 28 hours of fulfilled journey over a distance of 2,480 km, the train steamed into Beijing west railway station five minutes ahead of the scheduled time of arrival. Our train hostess Ma Li (English name Mary) bade zai jian (good bye), wishing a memorable stay in China. The size and layout of the railway station was awesome, as it looked more like an airport. The difference between the New Delhi railway station (Paharganj entry side) and the one in China was a painful reminder of the yawning gap between the galloping dragon and the slouching elephant. The shock is likely to be more intense when Indian visitors will be able to traverse between Shanghai and Beijing in a shorter time than the New Delhi-Amritsar stretch back home.

It is high time that we learnt some pertinent lessons from the Chinese unique experiment of "Socialism with Chinese characteristics". In bamboo-capitalism entrepreneurship, state- directed capitalism and tight political control go hand in hand. Corruption is rampant in China too, but so are the tough measures to curb it.

One single factor, which has contributed to the unparalleled Chinese achievement, is its visionary, dynamic and committed leadership. This is where lies the critical deficit, when we compare ourselves with China.

(The writer has served as Defence Attaché in China)

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