Rain magic

The monsoons are a visual treat in India. From Kerala to
Goa and from Kinnaur to Shillong, nature breaks out
into a dance every season, write Gyan Marwah, 
Sobita Shivshankar and Subodh Samuel

The huge expanses of vegetation — ranging from plantations
of tea, coffee, rubber and pepper to the emerald-green paddy fields
— make Coorg a feast for the eyes 

Mesmerising Kerala
DURING the monsoons, the colours on nature’s palette in Kerala are green foliage and the grey overcast skies. Interestingly, unlike Goa, Kerala is not known as a monsoons’ destination.

But a euphoric surprise awaits tourists, who come for a vacation during the rains. There is a variety of attractions on offer — from an invigorating dip in the sea to a mesmerising cruise on the backwaters in a kettuvallam (houseboat), with the coconut trees swaying gently against a heavily cast skyline.

The arcane rituals and festivals during the spectacular monsoon months stimulate even the most jaded imagination, continuing centuries of tradition. Weary of city life, travellers find Kerala in the monsoons a greatly relaxing experience.

As the luxury wood-and-coir boat cruises lazily in the gently lapping waters, you will be mesmerised by the soothing murmur of the rain and the overhanging clouds. It is an experience few can really not be awed by. Watching the weather gods turn the lake from gold to a darkish hue till it finally coalesces into velvet black is a magical sight.

Fog-swept Coorg
Though Coorg is worth coming to any time of the year, during the monsoons this thickly forested region in the Western Ghats offers such breath-taking sights that comparisons with Scotland are simply unavoidable. Fog-swept hills, rolling countryside with verdant valleys, gushing waterfalls and a languid pace of life, all come together to present one of the most splendid marvels that nature has on offer.

A visit to Coorg during the monsoons can be a special treat for nature lovers. The huge expanses of vegetation — ranging from plantations of tea, coffee, rubber and pepper to the emerald- green paddy fields, make it a visual feast during rains even as the otherwise serene River Cauvery is in full flow.

And when the rains stop, there is yet another visual feast, that awaits the eye — the twitter of birds. Coorg is a haven for birds as it lies in the path of the South-West Monsoons. Birds of varied plumage have made Coorg their home. Laughing thrushes, grey-headed bulbul, Ceylon frogmouth, white ibises and cormorants are a welcome sight. The lucky ones may also spot a blue-winged parakeet or even the Nilgiri wood pigeons.

Go Goa
During the monsoons, Goa is all smiles, dances and joyfulness. A 100- km coastline studded with some of the world’s most beautiful beaches. Rains suddenly turn the surroundings into a riot of colours. The golden beaches of the aquamarine Arabian Sea fringed with palm trees, surrounded by verdant hills, are a sight to behold.

That’s when you realise there is so much to enjoy in Goa during the monsoon season. The green hills, coastal plains and the blue seas make it one of the most exotic tourist destinations.

The best part of the rains is that the beaches are windswept, clean and pristine. They are not crowded with shacks, as the owners remove these and move away during the rains. Goa rains seldom continue for long stretches. These come and go and there is intermittent sunshine with clouds playing hide and seek with the sun. Even when it doesn’t rain the monsoon magic is palpable.

Breathtaking Garhwal Himalayas
There’s seldom a more bewitching sight than nature unveiling its beauty in the rains. And when the sight happens to be as splendorous as the Garhwal Himalayas, you just stand transfixed.

Breathtaking landscapes overshadowed by lush green mountains, alpine meadows with the waters of River Ganges gushing past like a singing rivulet. Nothing prepares you for this nature’s marvel. Nothing ever can. For, between description and reality there lies a deep chasm.

The tiny hamlets nestling in the midst of luxuriant rain forests, boast of splendid views of some major Himalayan peaks. There is hardly any habitation here except a few tourists and pilgrims who come for worship. But during monsoons even the tourists become scarce and the serene surroundings.

Often referred to as Dev Bhoomi, or Tapobhoomi, (both meaning Holy land), the Garhwal Himalayas offer such stunning sights during monsoons that it will take the breath away — lush green forests on one side and high mountain ranges on the other with waterfalls cascading down from the skies. Such are the wonders of nature that they will give you a surreal feeling that you are in the heartland of heaven.

Colours of Kinnaur
It’s the one of the best-kept secrets of the Himalayas where nature has jealously guarded its pristine beauty. The scenic Kinnaur region of Himachal, at a heady height of 3,450 metres, is surrounded by lush-green fields and high mountain peaks. Here, quaint little houses, temples and gompas conjure up a perfect image of a ShangriLa.

Kalpa, the capital of Kinnaur, is a distance of 238 km and eight hours of steep drive from Shimla skirting River Sutlej through Narkanda, Rampur Bushair and Rekong Peo. The journey may be hazardprone at times and bonerattling in parts. But once you reach Kalpa, the long haul appears quite worth the trouble.

During the monsoons, Kinnaur’s stunning wilderness offers picture-postcard scenery. The rugged mountains can change colours several times of the day, in response to the interplay of the clouds and the sun. The dense forests, fruit orchards, lush green valleys on the one side and the rugged mountains and miles of high-altitude desert on the other unfold their magical beauty in the monsoons. All around there is a desolate stillness broken only by the pitter-patter of the rain and the gushing rivulets.

Scotland of the East
Not many know that one of the final destinations of ‘rain chasers’ is Mawsynram — a village between Cherrapunji and Shillong — which receives the world’s highest rainfall. But if you do not want to be inundated by relentless showers, Shillong, the capital of Meghalaya, is a better destination to enjoy the monsoons.

During the Raj era this charming hill station was considered one of the most beautiful places to be in the rainy season. Surrounded by pine trees and veiled in clouds, it reminded Britons strongly of home and they called it the Scotland of the East.

In the rainy season, the hills, streams and valleys of Shillong unfold a stunning and scenic panorama that only nature can reveal. The Umshyrpi and Umkhra streams in the town — both of which precipitate in magnificent cascades known as the Bishop Gorge —are swollen and breathtaking. The spectacular landscape is completely mesmerising, as the wind whistles through the gigantic ‘Elephant’ Waterfalls, which are in full flow and capture the essence of the rains.

Rain-kissed Western Ghats
For those who enjoy rugged monsoon destinations, the Sahayadri range in the Western Ghats offers immense possibilities for a rain-drenched vacation. The best places to visit are just 50 to 60 km from Pune and these include hill stations like Mahabaleshwar, Panchgani, Lonavala and Khandala, all of which blossom during the monsoon months.

Here the fresh hilly air, the chirping of birds, rustling of the leaves will overtake your senses. The thick deodhars and pine trees will wrap you in their silence. The calm will be broken only by the intermittent rains, which could soon turn into a downpour.

The entire scenery is lush green and the three mesmerizing lakes in the vicinity — Tugauli, Bhushi and Valvan — are brimming with water. Rains also bring forth gushing waterfalls, which are a delight to watch. A great challenge awaits the more daring adventure-seekers. 

The monsoons are the best time to trek in the region especially to the caves of Karla, Bhaja and Bedsa in the mountains. The trek offers some of the most stunning sights in the Western Ghats. The luxuriant natural settings of the entire rain-kissed region are a visual treat and will leave you transfixed.

Eastern Shangri-La
Nestled at the foothills of the Himalayas, Assam is at its best during the monsoons with its breathtaking scenes of lofty green hills, rich tropical rain forests and vast rolling plains, fed by the silvery waters of the mighty Brahmaputra, gushing down from Tibet.

One of the most enduring destinations is the Kaziranga National Park spread across Karbi-Anglong hill ranges in Assam on the banks of the Brahmaputra. Though the park officially closes for the monsoons from May onwards, it usually remains open for jeep safari visitors till the end of June. With temperature being a very pleasant 18 to 20 degrees, this is the best time to visit the place. Stay at one of the well-appointed hotels opposite the park and you can enjoy the advent of the monsoons at its best.

During the rainy season, Kaziranga is a great place for bird watchers and is habitat to species like the black kite, oriental honey buzzard and a vast number of other birds. In the vicinity of the national park lies the Orange Park, which is serene and scenic and offers great flora as well.

Here on a rainy morning you can let your eyes rest on the overcast skies and magnificent greenery all around. Let the cool, pine-scented air revive you as you admire the dramatic sweep of greenery and countryside. Rains, as the locals say — and as you will experience — can be heavenly in Assam. — NF

A heron in Kaziranga National Park. During the rainy season,
the park is a great place for bird watchers

HOME