It’s raining food

While the parched land soaks in the monsoon showers,
the palate yearns for fried stuff, hot snacks from
the kitchen and steaming beverages

"O sajana! barkha bahar ayee, ras ki phuhar layee, nainon main pyaar layee ..." the lyrics of the old Hindi film song set to a lilting tune tell us. But then, man doesn’t live by love alone. The heart may pine but the stomach also rumbles in sync with the thundering clouds.

As clouds gather and darken the sky at the onset of monsoon, a strange, pleasant restlessness starts stirring desire. Lovers separated from their beloved find the season unbearable. Others are excited by the possibilities of a fulfilling tryst.

Two of the great Sanskrit works Meghdutam and Geet Govinda evoke the magic of rains with great poignancy. As the giant water-laden clouds darkened the sky on the first day of Aashaarh, the pooryaksha, hero in the classic work penned by Kalidas, banished from the court of Kuber, pined for his beloved and beseeched the water vapour-laden ephemeral body to carry his message to the beautiful lady love. In contrast, Jaidev paints the picture of Radha, who is emboldened by the thunder and lightening, to embark on an adventurous tryst in the woods with Krishna.

There are countless masterpieces of Indian art — the miniature paintings of Rajput, Mughal and Pahari school that celebrate the monsoon and its myriad seductions. Lovers of food are no less affected by the amorous couples; showers that revive the parched earth scorched by the summer sun-stoked appetite that had slackened in grishma ritu. The palate yearns for fried stuff, hot snacks from the kitchen and steaming beverages. Heavy downpours confine us indoors and working in the kitchen is pleasant once again.

In many parts of India, this is the time to splurge on pakora, bhajiya, vada, tikki and samosa washed down with chai often laced with ginger, peppercorns and cardamom.

In Bengal, khichhdi is a one-dish meal more favoured than any pulav and biryani and rich maalpua is specially favoured. Fish roe bora are more rarely encountered. Baingan bhaja is relished by itself and not as an accompaniment in the main meal. Alu chop with moori is a breakfast dish in Bengal but can be adapted brilliantly as a tea-time snack as you watch the rain pour in.

Gobhi, alu pyaaz, mirchi and, at times, paneer provide the staple pakora. More innovative cooks try their hands at torai, tamatar, kheera, besides baingan and palak. In the Awadh region of Uttar Pradesh, methi is a favourite in the countryside. Benaras prides itself in moong ki pakori.

The trick is in refrying the pakora like the professionals for that extra crisp texture and, of course, ensuring that the batter is not too thick. Mixing a bit of rice flour to besan also improves the fritters. Sprinkling the batter with jeera or ajwain and accenting it with a pinch of rock salt packs it with a pleasant punch. It is equally important to drain the last trace of excess oil on paper towels.

In the days gone by, matar ki kachori was a winter specialty. Now with the frozen variety round the year, you can include these mini-delights in the monsoon menu.

Samosa and tikki are normally procured from a halwai but during monsoon, it is a chore to exert even to reach to the nearest shop at the street corner. There is no need to despair. This is the time to revive lost home recipes. Mother used to cut down on size of the triangles and increase the numbers on the plate. The fillings lend themselves to infinite variations. From healthy sprouts, minced mushrooms and egg whites to peas and good-old potatoes chopped, stir-fried and tempered (in Bengali style) or the traditional spicy mash, anything and everything goes.

Kerala is the verdant land where the monsoon starts its journey northwards lashing across the western coast. It is in the fitness of things to savour some tangy snacks from these parts during the rain-soaked afternoons. We, on our part, love the fried plantain but as the right variety is difficult to procure, we will happily settle for masala dal vada that is popular in Tamil Nadu and Karnataka.

We have never been able to fathom why bonda has suddenly receded into the background. Mustard specked and concealing flavourful curry leaves and green chillies, it holds the promise not only to quell seasonal pangs of hunger but also tickle the jaded palate. Sabudana vada, powered with mungphali, too, can be employed to break the pakora monopoly.

Then there are the forgotten pleasures of dak bungalow. Bread rolls that claimed and acquired the status of a delicacy just because nothing else was available as one sang out ‘Rain, rain, go away!’ and happy memories of an excursion were associated with their consumption. You can fill these with grated processed cheese and surprise family and friends with an ‘a la Kieve’ effect.

Don’t have a guilty conscious about the deep-fried stuff. Consume in moderation and use some healthy oil as the cooking medium.

The age-old time-tested wisdom of ayurveda tells us that this is the time to incorporate the sweet and sour, salty and astringent tastes in our daily diet. A verse in Bhavprakash Nighantu puts it succinctly:

Varshasu prabalovayusmastasmanmishtaditrayah

This translates as — during the rains, the element of air is aggravated hence specific flavours — sweet, sour, salty, bitter, and astringent must be resorted to prevent and cure any imbalance. Snehan, literally enriching the repast with fat, is specifically recommended. The fried snacks amply take care of snehan and the spices and condiments used in recipes and accompanying chutneys ensure that all the recommended rasa are imbibed. Much before you unfurl the colourful umbrellas, start preparing the pots and pans for action.

Saboodana  vada

Preparation time: 1 hour
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Serves: 5

Ingredients
Sago (saboodana) (washed, drained, keep aside for 1 hour) 2 cups

Potatoes (boiled and mashed) two

Peanuts (roasted and crushed) 1 cup

Green chillies (finely chopped) 4-5

Rock salt to taste

Oil for deep-frying

Method
Separate the sago so that it is free from any lumps and sprinkle 1cup water. Add the potatoes, green chillies, peanuts, and rock salt; mix well. Divide the mixture equally into small portions and shape each into flat patties and if required grease you hands with some oil. Heat the oil in a deep pan; deep-fry the patties on medium heat till golden brown. Turn and fry the other side. Serve hot with any chutney.

Bread  Rolls

Ingredients
Bread slices (soaked in very little water, just to moisten) 4

Potatoes (boiled and mashed) 200 g

Cumin powder ½ tsp

Garam masala ½ tsp

A large pinch of black rock salt

Onion (medium and chopped fine) one

Green chillies two

(deseeded and chopped fine)

A small sprig of mint leaves/ fresh coriander (chopped)

Salt to taste

Oil to deep fry

Method
Mix the soaked slices of bread, powdered spices, green chillies, onions, mint or coriander leaves and the salt with potatoes and blend well. Shape into croquets by rolling and pressing with moist palms. Heat oil in a pan and deep fry till these acquire a rich golden brown colour. Serve hot.

Ingredients
Bananas not very unripe but not fully ripe (ideally Plantains) four

Rice flour 1/2cup

Sugar 2 tsp

Baking powder ½ tsp

Salt ½ tsp

Oil for deep frying

Method
Peal and slice bananas lengthwise then halve crosswise. Prepare a thick batter in a bowl by mixing all other ingredients adding required quantity of water. Dip the banana slices in this batter coating these evenly. Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan and deep fry the fritters in batches till crisp and golden. Remove, drain excess oil and serve hot.

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