Full of Beans
With the winds of change sweeping the metros, Café culture is fast gaining roots in cosmopolitan cities. Coffee shops are emerging as popular hangout zones for the young urban crowd. For some, these offer a quiet refuge while for others these are a place to have endless sessions away from prying eyes, writes Debayani Bose

It is balmy summer evening and a popular café Coffee Day (CCD) outlet in upmarket Park Street area in a metro is brimming over with people savouring frappés, cappuccinos and brownies with a generous dose of gossip.

 Many youngsters love to browse books while others plug in a laptop, play games, or listen to music while sipping coffee
Many youngsters love to browse books while others plug in a laptop, play games, or listen to music while sipping coffee

From the stable of Arabian shepherd Kaldi, who according to a legend, discovered coffee accidentally when his goats went euphoric after eating the dark green-leafed shrub, the elite man’s drink has travelled a long way to become a popular culture of cosmopolitan metros in recent times.

"I like the coffee culture that has caught on in India though I would say it’s largely an imitation of the West. I have been travelling for the past 20 years and feel it has been an integral part of the western world for quite some time now.

"I love the coffee corners in bookstores like Crossword doubling as a snack bar as well as a book shop. Even the standalone coffee shops like Barista are quite a good thing with these turning as popular hangout zones. Cosy-cushioned interiors, light music and warm colours make it my favourite," observes noted fusion percussionist Bickram Ghosh.

Many cafés offer special sessions for coffee lovers, who wish to learn the art of brewing and drinking coffee
Many cafés offer special sessions for coffee lovers, who wish to learn the art of brewing and drinking coffee

"But at the same time, I am all for the quintessential tea stalls. Each of these cultures has a unique flavour of its own and I want both to survive. I would never want the chaiwallahs (tea sellers) to go out of business because of the new-age cafés," he adds.

Known to have spread the café culture in the country, the indigenous café Coffee Day (CCD), Italian Barista Lavazza and Costa Coffee have around 1,250 cafés across India.

Recently, Starbucks Coffee had inked an MoU with Tata Coffee Limited, one of India’s leading providers of premium Arabica coffee beans. Tata and Starbucks will jointly explore the development of Starbucks retail stores in different outlets across the country.

According to a rough estimate, another 5,000 outlets may come up close to offices, colleges and malls soon.

For old timers, however, the age-old coffee shops still hold the magic.

"I have been visiting this coffee shop since my college days and have been addicted to the old-world charm of the place," says Sunita Dhanuka, a frequent visitor to the Indian Coffee House in College Street, also known as the Boipara, which had been frequented by Kolkata’s intellectual crowd since the 1970s.

Similarly, writer Ashim Mukhopadhay loves to visit the Jadavpur Coffee House in South Kolkata, which came into being way back in 1962.

Despite the peeling walls and rickety tables, it’s a comfort zone for him where the waiter knows him by name, leads him to his favourite table and brings him his usual order with the ease and familiarity of old acquaintances.

Some, however, prefer to visit both the worlds as each has its own charm.

"The old coffee shops were much more inclusive and catered to the needs of all sections of the society as they were less expensive. I like visiting both the old and the new ones though.


For old timers, however, the age-old coffee shops still hold the magic. “I have been visiting this coffee shop since my college days and have been addicted to the old-world charm of the place,” says Sunita Dhanuka, a frequent visitor to the Indian Coffee House in College Street, also known as the Boipara, which had been frequented by Kolkata’s intellectual crowd since the 1970s.

"The old ones evoke a sense of nostalgia while the new ones offer varieties. Wengers (for pastries) and Keventers (for flavoured milk) top my list,’’ says a Delhi-based writer Harsh Agarwal.

For Pune-based KPO executive Preetam Kondekar, the German Bakery has always been my favourite haunt. "The cold coffee there tastes heavenly.

"It’s sad that it has closed down after the terror attack. But for the coffee I am ready to brave even a terrorists’ onslaught and be there," he adds.

Located in a posh locality, German Bakery closed down after several persons were killed in a gruesome terror attack in February 2010.

The café culture, perhaps, ties the East and the West in a unique way.

"Starbucks is fine, but I prefer the more locally owned and operated coffee shops. I like to support business people from the community and a lot of times there’s more attention to detail, and they take pride in serving something of higher quality," observes Stuart Ungar, 45, of Louisville, Ky. in the USA, a coffee aficionado himself.

He’s not too fond of frilly drinks but likes strong coffee, especially in bookstores.

"It kind of goes with the bookstore because if you want to look through a book or magazine, it’s a nice thing," he says.

"I think each city should have places where one can feel at ease and while away hours with friends and relations. The new-age coffee shops are offering just that," Anindya Chatterjee, member of a popular Bengali band Chandrabindoo, says.

"This is a new-age addiction which has gathered roots and is here to stay. I believe, each of us has our own favoured destination when it comes to having a coffee break,’’ he adds.

Modern-day cafés are more than just a coffee room — it is a breakfast nook where one could settle with a newspaper happily; it is an afternoon rendezvous for friends and lovers and it is a tryst for anyone with a good taste for coffee. As the wall at a Barista outlet rightly points out, "It’s easier to change one’s religion than one’s café."

Coffee break

A mecca for youngsters, cafés are places they can’t do without. A visit to one of the coffee joints is a must for most urban youth, writes Jasmine Singh


Wi-fi is a new addition to cafes
Wi-fi is a new addition to cafes

The story began in 2002 with Barista, later came café Coffee Day. There was no looking back after that. Mr Beans, Mocha’s, Arabia, Barista Lavazza soon joined this growing tribe. cafés have become a Mecca for youngsters, places to discuss, plan and even plot things! From an Indian Coffee House where turbaned men served South Indian dishes, along with coffee, to the present times where we have upgraded versions of cafés that are one-stop places where you can either explore new gadgets or beat the fellow opponent in 3D games, it has been a long but interesting journey.

Gadget house

Wi-fi is a new addition to cafés. One can plug in a laptop, try your hands at chess and scrabble, even strum a guitar, or learn new techniques of making coffee. The café Coffee Day lounge in Sector 9, Panchkula, has special sessions for coffee lovers, who wish to indulge in the art of brewing and drinking coffee. Here they learn special alternative brewing techniques as well. Says Ramchander Raman, Head, Food & Beverage, café Coffee Day, "Our experience in coffee retailing has shown us that there are customers, who actually want to indulge in the joy of tasting and brewing coffee, and also introduce this art to others. This gives them a sense of being a connoisseur and also teaches them how to choose the right food that compliments the brew or occasion."

In some places, these are called gizmo cafés. A gizmo café provides its customers an opportunity to closely check various gadgets and also a chance to play 3-D games on playstations.`A0 Ludhiana and Amritsar are the pioneers in this new concept.

Food for thought

Coffee has changed and so has the menu to go with it. From scrambled eggs, bread toast to breads, cakes, muffins, brownies, it has now graduated to dosa, pasta, and soups. There is a menu for every season, summer, winter, autumn and even rainy season. Breakfast menu is the latest add-on. Off late, these cafés have turned a little mystic with hookahs and sheeshas. Interactive menu, designed by internationally experienced chefs is the next new thing to be added on many cafés’ menu list. In addition to this, café joints also provide an option to pick from Mediterranean, Lebanese, Mexican, Indian and even Punjabi food, along with various types of coffee that go with these dishes. Something to suit every palate!





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