Beach beauty

With its beautiful beaches and unspoiled islands, Krabi is one of the most famous
tourist destinations in Thailand. It is also a popular destination for rock climbers,
who are allured by its limestone cliffs, writes Nivedita Choudhuri


Tourists Paradise: One of the most favourite spots of Ao Nang, this wonderful
beach in the north of Koh Poda is fascinating with white fine sand and
crystal-clear sea Thinkstockphotos/ Getty Images

THailand’s multi-million-pound tourism industry temporarily faltered last year when an initially peaceful protest by the Red Shirts – against the government’s refusal to call an election after the ousting of former Thai Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra – deteriorated into a violent stand-off. It claimed many lives and was played out on the world’s television screens. However, dependence on tourism means that the bounce-back has been quick.

At the plush Rayavadee resort, a luxury hideaway on the Andaman Sea near holiday hotspot Krabi, the modern face of tourism in Thailand has little to do with politics. The clear waters are alluring, the shuttle boat takes guests from the tourist strip near the beachfront of Ao Nang into the secluded Phranang Bay. The opulent vista that meets the eye is of elegant villas overlooking a landscaped garden and a lavish pool area.

Much of the accommodation at Rayavadee is camouflaged among foliage that includes soaring palms, coconut trees and a rainbow of tropical plants. The jungle setting eventually gives way to rising hunks of creamy limestone cliffs that are topped with more greenery. Beyond the 500-metre stretch of the beach, there’s ever-blue ocean and hints of far-away isles.

With evening temperatures pushing the mercury up to around 30`B0C, dark-wood rooms, with crisp, white bed linen and whirling fans provide an instant salve.

Krabi is the nearest town, which is the capital of the beautiful Krabi province. It is fairly touristy and a jumping-off point for Koh Phi Phi, Koh Lanta, Ao Nang and Rai Leh.

Set on the banks of the Krabi Estuary, the town takes its name from a sword, or krabi, allegedly discovered nearby. It is surrounded by towering limestone outcrops, which have become the symbol of Krabi province. Among the most notable are Kanap Nam twin limestone peaks, which stand like sentinels at each side of the river. To the east, the town is flanked by mangrove-lined shorelines.

There is a general market on Srisawat and Sukhon roads, and a night market close to the Chao Fah pier. The pier is filled with food stalls at night and frequented mainly by locals. The food is highly varied and cheap, although the cooking is quick-fire, so you need to make sure everything is properly cooked.

The next tourist stop could be the main tourist strip in the province of Krabi, Ao Nang, which bristles with neon-lit shop-fronts, bars and restaurants. Catering to holidaymakers has drained resorts like these of much of their exoticism. Big brands – Burger King for example – jostle for space, alongside souvenir stores, tailors, tattooists and massage parlours. Scooter taxis line the main road, some souped-up with big, noise-making stereos, others barely creaking into life. Street stalls here sell everything from spring rolls to cheeseburgers.

Ao Nang isn’t a sophisticated resort — it is Thailand’s take on what Spanish and Greek island package holiday resorts have been serving up for decades. It is relaxed and family-friendly though.

For all international menus, Thai food remains the cheapest and most delicious thing to eat. Thai green curry and Pad Thai (noodles and stir-fried meat or seafood) are recommended. These cost around 200baht (Rs 280 approximately), while a Singha beer costs around 100baht per can (Rs 140).

For the best of Ao Nang, head to the quieter, eastern end of the beach, where the bars and restaurants are more spacious or to the seafood eateries at the west end. A freshly cooked sea bream laced with chilli, lime and garlic and a small mountain of steaming rice will set you back around Rs 350 – an absolute bargain.

The next day travellers can set out for the spectacular Koh Phi Phi (pronounced PP), 40 km south of Krabi town. It is, in fact, two separate islands: Phi Phi Don and Phi Phi Ley. Both islands belong to the Phi Phi-hat Nopparat Thara National Park.

The two sections of Phi Phi Don, the larger of the two islands, are linked by a 1-km isthmus of sand. Here stands the island’s original Muslim fishing village, Ban Ton Sai. This area was badly damaged by the 2004 tsunami, but extensive reconstruction work is ongoing.

Unlike Phi Phi Don, Phi Phi Ley remains uninhabited and unspoiled. Boats from Phi Phi Don bring visitors on day trips to see the paintings in Viking Cave. Another feature of the cave is the nests of the edible-nest swiftlet, which are used in bird’s nest soup.

There is travel and then there are holidays and the most intrepid visitors to Thailand have long since found new haunts. The lush, green jungles of the country’s north are quiet but for people, who simply want to kick back, sip a cocktail and enjoy Mother Nature’s still stunning handiwork in comfort, Rayavadee, Ao Nang and Koh Phi Phi are ready to welcome you.

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