Hungarian rhapsody

Situated on the banks of the river Danube, Budapest is cited as one 
of the most beautiful cities in Europe, writes Ranjita Biswas


The historical Chain Bridge Thinkstockphotos/ Getty Images

LiviNG in India we are quite used to various fairs where artisans sell their handicrafts, stalls offer traditional sweets and folk dancers regale the visitors. But to come across a folk art fair in Budapest was sheer luck. This was part of the celebrations of Hungary’s National Day.

As I roamed around the huge grounds of the Buda castle where the fair was going on, the atmosphere was vibrant with visitors, dancers in ethnic costumes and stalls of many hues. Women in traditional costumes were turning out beautiful embroidered jackets, some used old-style looms, men were doing metal work and musicians were playing on old-style guitars. The aroma of freshly cooked food hung heavy in the air. A bright introduction to the traditional culture of Hungary, indeed.

Earlier in the day, I had taken a walking tour to learn the history of the Buda castle, a World Heritage site, nestled in the hills in the older part of Budapest. The city is spread over two sides of the Danube and combines two names, Buda and Pest. Pest is newer and the commercial centre. I took the subway from Pest to Moska station and took a bus (No 16) to go up the hill to congregate at the 700 year old St Matthias Church to meet the guide. The 13th century castle has been witness to many ups and downs through history. The museum inside the palace is worth visiting too.

A cruise on the "Blue Danube" is a must. As I and my guide Andrea boarded the boat at the Danube embankment at Pest, a welcome glass of champagne awaited us. A group of musicians stopped by every table and sang a few lines of songs depending on the nationality of the guest. ‘‘From India?" they asked me, and promptly started strumming "Jai Ho" on the guitar. As the boat glided down the river, going beneath the historical Chain Bridge and Liberty Bridge and spectacular buildings on both banks looked on benignly under the setting sun, one could see why Budapest is called one of the most beautiful cities in Europe.

Another must-visit site is the Heroes’ Square at the centre of the city. Fashioned like Greek colonnades, between the pillars in the semi-circular construction, are ensconced statues of the greats from Hungarian history. The huge square is flanked by the Art Gallery and the Museum of Fine Arts.

Just a stone’s throw away is the famous Szechenyi spa. Budapest has nearly 100 thermal wells. This beautifully designed spa is a great draw for both locals and visitors. Like the foot massage in Thailand, a hot spring bath is a must in Budapest.

The beautiful State Opera House, which had opened in 1884, is worth exploring, too. In the evenings, the area around the Opera House comes alive with lights from many eateries, which are quite affordable. A meal of Goulash, the country’s traditional hot-pot dish, is not to be missed.

The majestic Parliament building is another place worth visiting. But alas, as it was the National Day, the interior was closed for visitors but one could go around the beautiful garden with its many striking sculptures. From there tourists can take a tram (No 2), which goes in a circular track all round the riverside providing a wonderful view!

There are many places to explore beyond Budapest. There is Godollo, 30 km away, where ‘Sisi’ (Elisabeth), the plucky empress of Austro-Hungarian Empire of the Habsburgs, had her favourite Royal Palace, the largest Baroque palace in Hungary.

Then there is museum with a difference — the furniture museum at the castle at Nagyteteny. It has a huge collection of furniture sourced from all over Europe and meticulously arranged period-wise in 28 rooms.

Another must-visit landmark of Budapest is — the Great Synagogue on Dohany Street. Hungary still has one of the largest Jewish population in Europe. This huge synagogue is the second largest in the world, next to the one in New York. Designed like a basilica with beautiful Byzantine and Moorish tile-work, the interior are even more ornate.

Hungary’s Jewish people have a sad history as thousands were deported to concentration camps by the Nazis and many were killed in the city itself. The synagogue bears the testimony to this tragedy. In the memorial park at the backyard is a remarkable sculpture — Tree of Life, a weeping willow by artist Imre Vaga. On the leaves of this sculpted tree are inscribed names of the people who died.

Budapest has a huge variety of beautiful places, so visitors require ample time to explore its lovely heritage.

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