In the heart of Middle East

Located at the crossroads of civilisations, Jordan has a cultural confluence that
can’t be found anywhere else, writes Tanushree Podder


Jordan’s only port, Aqaba, is the playground of the rich and the famous 
Photo by the writer

YOU are at the heart of the Middle East," stated Abdul dramatically, pausing near the entrance to the erstwhile Greco-Roman city. "Jordan is located at the crossroads of civilisations and nowhere else will you get to see the kind of cultural confluence that you see here."

A Roman architecture aficionado, it was a delight to find a veritable treasure of Roman structures before me. We were at Jerash, the formerly known as Gerasa, belonging to the Decapolis, which was a conglomerate of Ten Roman Cities, nine of which were located in the modern-day Jordan. Most of these were founded in the Hellenistic era. Jerash has the distinction of being one of the best preserved Roman cities in the region.

The Hadrien’s Arch loomed up, as you trudge past the clutch of shops selling touristy stuff in an enclosed area. Imposing and regal, it was breath-taking. This was far more impressive than the Hadrien’s Gate at Ephesus and Antalya. The hippodrome brought back pictures of chariot races that had taken place here during the Roman era and one could almost visualise the cheering and shouting citizens.

Cardo, the colonnaded street with its umpteen columns that led to the vast Oval Forum, the remains of the temple where Artemis and Zeus had been worshipped, the huge South Theatre where gladiators displayed their skills and the still impressive Corinthian Column besides the ubiquitous Roman Baths, the ruins at Jerash has them all.

Except for Tuesdays, twice a day the hippodrome comes alive with chariot races, parade of legionnaires and gladiator fights. Fortyfive legionnaires attired in full regalia march through the hippodrome. Gladiators replay the fight to death drama and the chariots do the seven-lap race to bring to life the Roman era.

The next morning saw us on our way to Madaba, which was once a Byzantine religious centre with a tapestry of elaborate mosaics. On the floor of the Church of St George, lies a mosaic that dates back to 560 AD. Known as the Mosaic Map of Palestine, it clearly shows the Holy Land and its surrounding areas. The church goes a long time back to the Byzantine era.

"Under almost every house is a beautiful mosaic floor dating back a long time,’ informed Abdul, the guide.

Souvenirs of mosaic fridge magnets and tapestry are available at the stores lining the street.

Our next stop is Mt Nebo where Moses had been granted a first sight of the Promised Land. Peering through the haze, I try to see Jerusalem and Bethlehem, which according to Abdul is visible on a good day. All I can see is miles and miles of barren, dusty land as the wind eddies up more dust. A serpentine cross designed by an Italian artist, Giovanni Fantoni, looms up against the skyline, symbolising the cross and the serpent staff of Moses.

As we make our way towards Dead Sea, I recall all the stories I have heard about the Promised Land and the journey Moses made through the perils of an inhospitable terrain.

Most of us associate the Dead Sea with pictures of people smeared in black soil and floating on the water while reading newspapers. It is true! One sees people of all nationalities and colours robbed of their individuality as they parade around the place, their bodies enveloped in black soil of the Dead Sea. This is the lowest point on earth.

The therapeutic mud of the sea is said to cure skin problems, arthritis and many other ailments. It also makes a wonder beauty pack for the skin.

After the Dead Sea, I make my way towards Bethany beyond Jordan, where Christ was baptised by John, the Baptist. The sight of River Jordan meandering between Israel and Jordan recreates visuals of Biblical stories read long time ago. We were traipsing through the area from where Joshua had crossed the Jordan River into Canaan. This is also the place from where Elijah rode the Chariot of Fire into heaven. The waters of Jordan River were once used by Elisha to cure the leper and by John the Baptist to baptise Jesus. The references are innumerable and the emotions strangely peaceful. This is also the zone of churches. Dozens of churches dot the place.

We race down the ancient King’s Highway toward Aqaba, the playground of the rich and the famous citizens of Jordan. Though the Highway is more than 3000 years old, it is the lifeline that runs through the country.

Aqaba is Jordan’s only port. It has carried various names through the ages. For the Ptolemaic Greeks it was Berenice, for the Romans Aila before it before it became Aqaba. More importantly, it has everything a tourist may want — sea, sand and sun. The warm, crystal clear water makes it an ideal spot to indulge in snorkelling or deep sea diving. Aqaba’s underwater life features some of the world’s most astounding scenery, with a marine ecosystem that totals to more than 140 species of corals and myriad array of brightly coloured fish. Ringed by high desert mountains, it seems like a large oasis designed to bring relaxation to jaded souls and exhausted bodies — a panacea for weary travellers.

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