A taste of Thailand

Inder Raj Ahluwalia brings us a flavour of Thai cuisine

IF you find a Thai cook pondering over a simmering pot of gaeng pet (hot curry), chances are you’ll catch him resolutely adding another handful of tiny green chillies, called prick kee nu in Thai, a single one of which can blast the average firang out of his chair. Yes, Thais like their food ‘spiced up’.

A harmonious blend of the spicy, subtle, sweet and sour, meant to be equally satisfying to the eye, nose and palate, Thai cuisine is essentially a marriage of centuries-old Eastern and Western influences, served with a flourish yet clinging to their roots.

"A minute and detailed cuisine" is how Pinki Arora, an expert on the subject describes Thai cuisine. "The vegetables and fruits have to be cut in a particular way and size and the presentation is as important as the taste. The technique of Thai cooking is all about blending the four flavours with roots, herbs and leaves to enhance flavours."

Using herbs and spices that keep one close to one’s roots and cultures, Thai food reflects local communal life and is the only one to have a combination of spicy hot, sweet and salty tastes. Tracing its history means mapping out the nation’s history, which can roughly be divided into four main periods. The first is the Suklhothai period (1238-1350). Then came the Ayutthaya period (1350-1767) that saw Thai culture flourish and welcome several outside influences. Then came the Thonburi period under King Taksin, the Great (1767-1782). And finally, there was the Rattanakorin period under the present Chakri dynasty.

Traditional Thai cooking methods were grilling, baking or stewing, and Chinese influences introduced frying, stir-frying and deep-frying. Culinary influences from the 17th century included Portuguese, Dutch, French and Japanese. Thais were adept at ‘Siameseising’ foreign cooking methods, and substituting ingredients.

Chillies are as intrinsic to Thai food as garlic is to French, with the Thais liking their curries highly spiced. Some half dozen different kinds of chillies are used with abandonment, the hottest of them all being a deceptively pretty little orange one called prik nu luang. But Thai food fans who don’t have the ‘guts’ to stomach really fiery stuff can take heart from the fact that there’s non-spicy fare too, like moderately seasoned noodle dishes, for instance.

According to Arora, Thai cuisine’s range is vast and its characteristics depend on who cooks it, for whom, for what occasion, and where? Food relies on fresh produce, eating habits are dictated by social norms, and dishes can be refined and adjusted to suit various palates.

Reflecting the country and its people’s character, a Thai meal is traditionally a communal affair, with two or more people sharing several dishes, all served together and eaten with steamed rice. A typical meal might include a clear soup (perhaps bitter melons stuffed with minced pork); a steamed dish (mussels in curry sauce); a fried dish (fish and ginger); a hot salad (beef slices on a bed of lettuce, onions, chillies, mint and lemon juice) and a variety of sauces. Winding up the meal are sweet desserts or fresh fruits such as durian, melon, mangoes, jackfruit, papaya or grapes.

Snacks and hors d’oeuvres! These savory tidbits can be eaten alone or as side dishes. Traditional favourites include stuffed dumpling, satay, crisp fried rice noodles topped with sweet and spicy sauce, puffed rice cakes with herbed topping, and spring rolls.

Then there are the salads! Called yam, Thai salads are sour, sweet and salty. A simple dressing works equally well for meat, seafood, vegetable and fruit salads, and is made from fish sauce, lime juice and a dash of sugar.

An intrinsic part of Thai cuisine is the chilli dip, usually served with vegetables, meat or fish.

Curry lovers are in for a particular treat! Each has its own delectable taste and flavours. The heart of all Thai curries are the curry pastes, which are made from fresh herbs and spices. No meal is complete without the uniformly sweet Thai desserts. Banana or flour dumplings in sweetened coconut cream, and season fruit in sugar syrup topped with crushed ice are some of the easy-to-make favourities. At the end of the spectrum come the fruits, a story unto themselves. Who hasn’t marvelled at the intricate designs produced on pineapples, mangoes, papaya, and melon, all cut and arranged in myriad patterns and compositions. To the point, one almost hesitates to spoil the decorations!

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