Sunset at noon

The Korean peninsula faced heightened tension recently, in the wake of US-South Korea joint military exercises, after the alleged sinking of the South Korean warship Cheonon by the adversary. Major-Gen G. G. Dwivedi (retd) recalls his decade-old visit to North Korea


High-rise grey structures define the skyline of Pyongyang

WE were the last of the groups to board. Barring a handful, there seemed a dress code among most of the passengers. These were North Korean expats, men were in zipped beige safaris and women in their traditional attire. Each of them supported a lapel badge, bearing the image of Paramount Leader Kim II-Sung or Dear leader Kim Jong II, and in some cases, both. Air Koryo bi-weekly flight from Beijing to Pyongyang was the only one which connected the two capitals. In little over an hour, we were over Pyongyang, its high-rise grey structures defining the skyline.

Being on official visit, we were received by a pair of enthusiastic liaison officers. There was hardly any traffic on the eight-lane expressway. However, the smartly dressed women traffic police were prominent at each intersection, with ‘red and white’ batons. People in small groups lined up, astride the road barricades, holding artificial bouquets, waiting to cheer a visiting delegation. Some even waived at our mini motorcade.

Soon we were at Hotel Koryo, the sole five star facility in the Capital. Signs of austerity were evident from the standard of decor, furnishings and general environment. It was soon dark, but there were no streetlights. Hordes of shadows were emerging from the tube station and vanishing into the multi-storeyed concrete cubicles. These were the select few privileged to reside in the capital city.

Inside the hotel room, the lone TV channel was showing snippets of the two great leaders, their life history as saviours and icons in nation building. The hotel’s only restaurant had limited menu. There was not much for the vegetarians. The duty free shop was almost empty. In the eatable section, there were some fresh apples. The young sales girl, while billing, conveyed to me in broken English that she, too, was very fond of apples and hasn’t eaten one since long. I parted with some and she was thrilled. "I will share with my family" as she cheerfully acknowledged my little gesture.

On our way to Kim II-Sung mausoleum, we drove by village commune clusters. The workforce was engaged in agriculture activities. Juche doctrine i.e. self-reliance is the watchword enunciated by the Great Leader. The Kim II-Sung’s ideology was obviously not paying off, as the nation is unable to feed its 22 million inhabitants. A number of people reportedly die of starvation.

After a series of security checks, finally, one is ushered into huge hall where the body of the great leader lies in state, cased in a large glass structure. Pin-drop silence and semi-lit surroundings induce a feeling of hypnotic mystique. The fusion of serenity, reverence and technology were in absolute sync, to keep alive the legacy of the Great Leader.

Back in the city, the air was filled with patriotic speeches and martial music as if war hysteria has cast a magic spell. The immortal deeds of Kim II-Sung and how he continues to inspire through his son Kim Jong II in mitigating the agony, years after his demise, stand out as the cornerstone of Kim’s legacy.

The road from Pyongyang to Panmunjom resembles an airstrip. The 150-km road cuts through more than dozen large tunnels. The stretch of 38th Parallel separating the two Koreas is perhaps one of the most fortified patches on the earth. A narrow strip termed as Demilitarised Zone, keeps the belligerents apart, who are technically still at war even after nearly six decades. The Armistice agreement was signed in 1953 at Panmunjom, a tiny hamlet in the Demilitarised Zone. The soldiers of two Koreas stand nose to nose, along the demarcation line. Interestingly, the line passes even through the artefacts in the barracks, like the table on which the armistice document was signed.

There was an acute shortage of power. While returning to the hotel at night, one found the city plunged into absolute darkness as if observing a total blackout.

While waiting in the hotel lounge to check out, the huge TV screen was showing the dear leader Kim Jong II visiting some construction sites, with background commentary in a highly emotional tone. I asked the girl on the counter as to what is the commentator so excited about. "Oh sir! Our dear leader is deeply concerned for all us. He bears heavy burden in trying to improve our lives and make the nation prosperous. He is our icon and our hope. He is so charismatic". I could genuinely fathom the reverence and affection for the dear leader, in this young lady’s eyes.

On our way to the airport, astride the expressway, a large number of children are planting saplings. Embassy staffer tells me that this type of community work is compulsory for all the residents. He complains to me about the absence of any shopping or recreation facilities. However, his greatest concern is not to fall ill, as in the absence of adequate medical care, one can go the nature’s way.

With Kim Jong II in firm grip, the system fabricated by the elder Kim is firmly in place, one of the sons of Kin Jong II is being groomed to bear the mantle of the third-generation leadership.

Recently, the Korean Peninsula was again amid heightened tension, in the wake of US-South Korea joint military exercises, in response to the alleged sinking of the South Korean warship Cheonon by the adversary. This legitimises the fears of North Korea and reinforces their staunch faith in their leadership.

At the airport, Kim II-Sung’s king-size portrait dwarfs the terminal building.

It is midday and the aircraft is ready to take off. But it seems as if the evening has already descended. I recall the words of a Korean friend, whom I had met in Hong Kong, when in an emotional tone he whispered: " Ours is a blessed land, with plentiful of nature’s boon; it is man-made tragedy, the sun often sets at noon."

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