In praise of paradise
Humra Quraishi

THE Srinagar-based former DG Tourism, J&K, and former vice-president of the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, Mohammad Ashraf, is a recipient of the Hall of Fame award from the Adventure Operators Association of India for the promotion of adventure tourism in the Himalayas. He has been writing extensively on the lesser-known aspects of the Kashmir Valley. His essays and commentaries on Kashmir have been published in two volumes: Kashmir First - The Kashmir Story (Gulshan Books, Srinagar)

Excerpts from an interview:

Yes, I have been mostly writing for the local dailies in Kashmir and Jammu. Some of my articles have appeared in Khaleej Times, Dubai. It is not that I want my writings to remain in Kashmir only. Unfortunately, in spite of my best efforts, I have not been able to motivate any national papers to publish my articles. I did try a number of times. I would love to write a regular weekly or fortnightly column for a national daily interested in taking it up. It may not be limited to the tourism scenario, as I have been writing on all topics. Some people have reproduced my articles after picking these from my website, which has now about 400 write-ups on various subjects.

Tourism has been picking up but the real upmarket, well-paying tourists still shy away from Kashmir. From about 7.22 lakh tourists in 1989, it fell to virtual zero in 1990. The revival started in 1996 and since that time, it has seen many ups and downs. In spite of frequent hiccups, domestic tourists continue to visit Kashmir`85international tourists are held back by biased and adverse western travel advisories. Almost all European foreign offices advise their nationals not to visit Kashmir. The same is the case with the American and Australian Foreign Offices. This prevents group tourism to Kashmir, as no insurance company is prepared to insure these ....

In addition, a handicap has been the absence of a direct international air connection. Even in the best of times, when we received over 7 lakh tourists, the foreign numbers never exceeded 5 per cent of the arrivals in Delhi or Mumbai. This was due to the absence of direct flights. Tourists had to change planes in Delhi and pay an additional fare to visit Kashmir. It was after 30 years that the Central Government acceded to the request of the state government and declared Srinagar an international airport. One weekly flight was started between Dubai and Srinagar. However, this flight has been discontinued and Srinagar is now an international airport without any international flights. It is rather an international joke!

It is a fact that the religion of Islam was brought to Kashmir from Iran and Central Asia. In fact, Mir Sayed Ali Hamadani, popularly known as Shah-i-Hamadan, is buried in Koolab, Tajikistan. Kashmir has had very strong connections with Central Asia. These were unfortunately totally snapped in 1947. Kashmiri shrines and mosques did have Central Asian influence. The pagoda-style structures have a Buddhist influence. In recent times, after getting cut off from the traditional Central Asian links, the only influence has been of North India. The entire architecture has shifted towards modern Indian and western styles. We did have some British influence in the buildings, which, too, has been given up. In fact, at present we have hodgepodge architecture. As regards the sufi influence, it has been attuned to something called Kashmiriyat, a newly coined word to bring Kashmir closer to India. Instead of accepting the traditional reality of Kashmir and respecting it, attempts are being made to Indianise everything. Saleem Beg, former DG Tourism, has been making tremendous efforts to at least prepare an inventory of our heritage buildings. As part of INTACH, he has been restoring some of these.

During the last two decades, the worst sufferer, after the common people, has been the natural environment of Kashmir. There has been vandalisation from all quarters. The forests have been mercilessly cut by local timber smugglers, with the active involvement of the security forces. The lakes and rivers have been polluted beyond redemption. People seem to have become totally insensitive to this environmental disaster. Kashmir’s USP is its environment. If it gets damaged, Kashmir loses the main tourist attraction. Added to this is the global climate change. In fact, nature and man have colluded to destroy Kashmir’s natural beauty. People’s participation is required to stem the environmental rot. Unless people become fully aware and proactive, environment is heading for a disaster.

Yes, we used to live in paradise, but it is lost now. For the locals, the political turmoil has turned it into a hell. Especially, the last two decades have been the worst in the recent history. Apart from losing thousands of lives and the cultural mosaic of centuries, the people have lost the sensitivity to various happenings around them. We abhorred violence, but now it hardly affects us. Blood has become the cheapest commodity around. Still, we have not lost our traditional trait of hospitality. We continue to welcome all who come here in peace with love. Kashmir has been painted as the nuclear flashpoint and a hotspot. It is not that bad. The West has always been biased about Kashmir for its own interests. Kashmir continues to welcome tourists, who are our honoured guests. In spite of the most difficult conditions, Kashmiris have not lost their will to live and welcome tourists. In that regard, the paradise is still there and awaits all who want to come in peace. I feel Kashmir is safe for tourists and they can come without any hesitation.

The Indian Mountaineering Foundation is the apex body of land-based adventure in the country. The foundation has been assisting local youth in getting mountaineering training in various institutes at Darjeeling, Uttarkashi, and Manali. Now, we have an Institute in Pahalgam also. It regulates and monitors foreign expeditions all over the Himalayas. Every year, more than two to three dozen foreign expeditions visit the J&K. In addition, the foundation has provided assistance to local clubs for cleaning various trekking trails. Two important functions of the golden jubilee celebrations were held in Srinagar, for which the State Tourism Department provided full hospitality. The department is setting up an artificial climbing wall, for which foundation would be assisting in getting expertise. Once the wall is set up, a number of national championships in the sport can be held here.

Well, that is a very pertinent question. All the finer qualities of life take a backseat when the very survival of a human being is in question. As you know, there is absolute anarchy in Kashmir as regards basic human rights. Democracy and respect for human rights ceases when one enters the state barrier at Lakhanpur, our state checkpost after Punjab. The very right to life has been suspended under the provisions of the Armed Forces Special Powers Act. There is undue proliferation of security forces, especially in civilian areas. It is a miracle that Kashmiris are able to continue to live in spite of these draconian measures. However, these things are increasing the alienation of the common people day by day. Sometimes the foreign journalists are surprised at how the Kashmiris are carrying on in spite of such oppressive measures. The only answer is that we have seen so much oppression for the last 400 years or so that we have got used to it. The best confidence-building measure at present would be to revoke the draconian laws and demilitarise the civilian areas. It would definitely give a lot relief to the common people. However, such a step needs political will among our leaders, which at present is totally lacking.

Well, so far I have been writing individual articles, commentaries, and, in some cases, a series of articles. Last year, 80 of my articles were published as a collection of commentaries. I wrote 20 articles on Jammu, which I want to publish as a book. Many more collections on different topics can be published. I need a good editor and a publisher who can take articles from my website and publish these as books. In addition, I want to write some books exclusively on different aspects of Kashmir sometime in future.

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