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The designer burqa,
made of chiffon or georgette, is here to stay,
Fashion is a form of self-expression. It is all about experimenting with looks and, in many cases, attracts attention. The Islamic burqa is exactly the opposite. It is about modesty and attracting as little attention as possible. However, a growing number of young Muslim women are successfully blending the two. They get inspiration from the catwalk, the high street and fashion magazines, and they give the traditional attire a friendly twist — making sure that everything except the face and hands are covered. Gone are the old, bulky cloaks made of thick cotton and the curtain-like nose pieces that could be drawn across the face. The burqa of today is essentially made of chiffon, georgette or crepe, and women in Mumbai wear the tucked-in version in the Saudi Arabian fashion. The meshed eye-piece is scarcely seen among elite Muslim women any more, with most preferring to keep their elaborately done-up eyes uncovered. In the Middle East, burqas from designer houses like Gucci and Armani, are popular. In India cheaper versions are available in small stores in Delhi and Mumbai. While the Dubai ones will cost anywhere from Rs 5,000 to Rs 1 lakh, Indian designer "knockoffs" are a steal at Rs 6,000. In contrast, an ordinary burqa costs just Rs 400. The variety of burqas the fashion designers have been able to create is staggering. There is a coat style burqa, the favourite of collegians. You can wear it over jeans and it has basic designs on the collar and sleeves. The variations in this type are known are waistcoat model in crisscross and maxi styles. Another fashion in the burqas is to have colour embroidery that will stand out. Burqa enthusiasts say that on an average 10 new designs of are introduced in India, based on what is the current fashion in the Middle East, and you hear strange couture being introduced. It is said that a German designer has come up with a digital burqa. The attire comes with a bluetooth antenna, that allows the wearer to send her photo to nearby mobiles. Arshad Padamsee’s shop on Muhammad Ali Road — a hub of Muslim culture — has a stock of about 600 burqas at his shop known as Mumtaz Collections. The black cloth is being replaced by fancy fabrics like chiffon, georgette or crepe. The crystal-studded burqa comes with a price tag of over Rs 3,000 as compared to a traditional readymade burqa, which costs between Rs 1,500 and Rs 6,000. A bridal burqa, designed in crystals, costs above Rs 15,000. Despite high prices, the demand for designer burqas is only increasing. With the help of CAD (computer aided design), customers can also see the designs and patterns of burqas before placing orders. The mannequins draped in burqas are covered in heavy work and neatly nipped in at the waist. Some are crocheted, others have colourful sequins, but most are covered in ornate embroidery on the borders. "The burqa has undergone many changes over the years," says Padamsee. "Designer burqas first appeared at the Haj around 10 years ago," contiues Padamsee. Since then, they have become popular in Dubai, Saudi Arabia and other Islamic countries. It has come to India only now." The way in which a garment meant to be a modesty shield is being converted into a style statement hasn’t gone down well with the more conservative members of the community. —MF
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THE last 10 years —
since the 9/11 disaster in the US — have been years of tribulation
and success for fashion maestros trying to rejuvenate the burqa.
There was a time when burqas were of one piece, and all white, with
the portion covering the head elaborately done up. But these have gone
out of fashion, and the two-piece burqa is in vogue now. It is usually
black, though other colours are also patronised. Here one explanation
is necessary. Present-day trends regarding the burqa are almost
completely devoted to modification. The abaya (cloak in Arabic)
is a long garment, essentially a robe-like dress, which allows the
face to be kept uncovered.