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Pushpesh Pant
presents us with refreshing ivory in grass
WHO says that the South Indian repertoire is lacking in non-vegetarian delicacies? Swaagath, the eatery in Defence Colony in the Capital, has built up a loyal clientele on the strength of its dazzling menu of flesh, fish and fowl. To be honest, fish and seafood dominate but we are not complaining. Others have tried to unveil the maansahari treasures that lie hidden beyond the Vindhyas Coconut Grove, Royal Dakshin et al but none has made such an impact. Coastal from Maharashtra through Goa to Mangalore and Malabar as well Chettinad delicacies are represented and we have enjoyed many a memorable meal there. Contrary to popular misconception, this fare is not palate stinging but interestingly aromatic with pepper, cloves and cinnamon, with occasional whiffs of star anise. Recently we were treated to a brilliant samantvadi fish in to kill for emerald green tangy masala that was stunningly light and refreshing. We went into raptures
riling a pure vegetarian companion. She set us thinking hard when she
commented It is the gravy not the fish you stupid man that is
working the magic. To prove her point, she cooked for us what we
offer to our readers this week as Ivory in grass.
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