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No complicated grinding or fancy spices are required for WHO doesn’t know that the world of ‘chicken lovers’ is divided sharply between those who favour the robust-flavoured desi bird and those who prefer the softer flesh and milder taste of the ‘bred for the table’ broilers. Some time back, we were informed by a friend who claimed expertise in poultry that we could pick from the shelves of food marts ‘croilers’ that combined the virtues of two kinds. But that is another story.
A friend, who didn’t know when to stop, complained of lit up ‘taillights’ and thought that the surkh murg could only be compared to laal maans from Rajasthan. Wiser by his experience, we have toned down the recipe a little and found a few companions for the laal chhari maidan khari (mirchi) and are confident that you dear readers will enjoy the dish.
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Travelling
with my son in the strife-torn countryside of Chhattisgarh, we were
not long ago treated to a karak nag murg dinner. Not only was
the bird khalis desi but also was of striking jet-black colour.
This bird had plumage not shared with the gora leghorns or
brownish monarchs. Our host made up in generosity of spirit what was
lacking in terms of ingredients. The riches of poverty were stunning.
We were surprised by what just red chillies and salt can do to a dish.
No fancy aromatics, no complicated grinding to a fine paste of onions
and garlic, ginger was not particularly missed either. The karak
nag slaughter is prescribed ritual to propitiate local gods — to
ward off the evil eye, as a thanksgiving after wish fulfilment and the
special meal is greatly enjoyed by family and friends. Small leaf cups
brimming over with intoxicating homemade mahua are passed and
add to the joyous celebratory mood. The evening was magical and
rekindled memories of jangal maans and banjara gosht
dished out by the disciples of Maharaja Saheb Sailana.