Couture
WEAK


The runways saw many a couture week, but sometimes fashion simply ran weak. Here’re some of 2009’s showstoppers, spoilers and styles that went silly, writes Chetna Keer Banerjee

IF 2008 belonged to the recessionistas, 2009 was a toast to the spirit of revival. It actually gave cause for celebration, literally, with many a cause and couture getting stitched together to give us spectacles like Salman’s Being Human and Sanjana Jon’s Save Girl Child shows.

Aishwarya’s look on the Cannes red carpet was a top scorer of the year
SHOWSTOPPER: Aishwarya’s look on the Cannes red carpet was a top scorer of the year

This red dress of Sushmita was a disaster of 2009
SCARLET FEVER: This red dress of Sushmita was a disaster of 2009

Sonam didn’t make it to the Cannes red carpet but made it to style
She Cannes do it: Sonam didn’t make it to the Cannes red carpet but made it to style

Akshay’s dress in Dus Ka Dum was a disaster
Akshay’s dress in Dus Ka Dum was a disaster

With the profusion of back-to-back fashion weeks, some on collision course, the fashion frat, it seems, churned out wardrobes faster than Ratan Tata rolled out wheels in 2009. And show stoppers popped up on runways with a rapidity that could’ve given the run rate of our men in blue stiff competition. (It’s another matter that some of these khiladis were themselves caught more on runways than running on the field).

"Ah yes, there were way too many fashion weeks this year," says designer Rahul Mishra, whose collection ‘Threads of Freedom’ at Wills India Fashion Week-2009 (WIFW) earned him rave reviews. "And there were too many showstoppers, which often shifted the attention away from the wardrobes to the wearers," he feels.

Though the issue of showstoppers unlimited ‘n’ uninterrupted did have its rebels with a pause, the show(s) went on`85 Barely was it curtains down on one fashion week than another one got rolling. Apart from the Big Mommies of all design extravaganzas, the Lakme Fashion Week (LFW) and WIFW, there was the Van Huesen Men’s Fashion Week, HDIL Couture Week, debut edition of Bangalore Fashion Week and what not. And now, Chandigarh Fashion Week’s poised to be the latest debutante in this sisterhood of style spectacles!

So, was it more the merrier? "Hardly," says Rahul, who showcased only at the two main events, LFW and WIFW, this year. "In fact, it became unfashionable to be part of too many fashion shows."

"With so many shows, designers are not able to focus on a particular collection and it gets tiring too," he adds. Maybe, with fashion fatigue setting in, the year could’ve ended with a Lack of Will(s) India Fashion Week...

But in terms of making moolah, there was cause for cheer, for after the slowdown of 2008, business was brisk in 2009. Says Rahul, who had come out with an innovative ‘Reversing the Recession’ collection the previous year, "This recession line had ensembles which could be worn inside out to give the customers a buy-one-get-one-free feel to beat the meltdown mood." He adds, "This season, the mood became upbeat and the business was better."

A regular in the fashion week circuit, Mandira Wirk, the designer from apna Punjab who made a debut at Kolkata Fashion Week (KFW) besides a showing at the LFW, sums up the mood thus, "Recession was still the buzzword and so, investment clothing made it big at various fashion weeks. This season was all about practicality, aesthetics, styling and wearability. The predominant trend was of saleable creativity on the ramp."

The badshah of bandgala, Raghavendra Rathore, apart from doing the couture week circuit, came calling to Chandigarh recently to tap the Punjabi market. "Chandigarh is a very important market for me. My clientele here demands classic designs, so I have come to explore the market for menswear," is how he stated the purpose of his visit even as he spelt out the mood for 2010. "Careful spending will be the keyword for the coming season. Making wise choices is the way to go," he adds.

Talking of wisdom, how much sense and sensibility was there in the wardrobes of 2009 and which were the likeable and the lousy styles? While the biggies in the business come up with their own lists of the sexiest, best and worst dressed and other such hits and misses, we ask the style gurus to name their show stoppers and spoilers of the season and the moments when style went silly.

Mandira gives her list of likes: "Sonam Kapoor and Mallaika Arora Khan and Hrithik Roshan were the best dressed people around." No wonder then that the gorgeous Mallaika was her showstopper at the LFW.

As for Rahul, his vote for the best dressed woman of 2009 goes to Aishwarya Rai Bachchan. "She looked absolutely ravishing on the Cannes red carpet. After the series of faux pas she’d made earlier at Cannes, she really came into her own this season."

And the male who gets the trophy for being trendy, according to Rahul, is Saif Ali Khan. "He’s really evolved and worked hard on grooming himself. He was a scene stealer not just on the ramp this year (Sallu’s Being Human show and other fashion weeks), but his look in Love Aaj Kal spelt class too," says the designer.

But one look that designer Rahul feels really went wrong was that of Akshay Kumar in the animal print, V-neck skinny shirt on Salman Khan’s show Dus Ka Dum. "That was the ultimate fashion disaster of the season. Though there’s nothing wrong in sporting animal motifs, his style just didn’t click," the fashion guru feels.

No dress ka dum, poor Akki. No wonder, the hero didn’t have to work too hard to be voted the worst dressed in a recent survey. Kambakht kitsch

Mandira gives her verdict on the guys too. "Govinda could really do with a good stylist," comes her polite suggestion.

On the women on the red carpet, Mandira says, "Vidya Balan looks really nice in Indian attire, but she really didn’t carry off western wear. That’s a real red carpet faux pas she made."

Maybe Vidya’s learning her lessons, for she played safe at the Paa premiere in her Sabyasachi sari. She can now silence the fashion police with "Mere paas Paa hai!"

And when did style really go silly? "Well, Sushmita sure took the cake this summer with her outlandish animal print gown on the red carpet that looked more like night wear!" exclaims Rahul.

"There was just no fashion in it," Rahul elaborates. Perhaps, she was attempting a Scarlet O’ Haara, literally, but ended up doing a midsummer night’s scream.

Adds Mandira, "All the trends worn together are a perfect recipe for a fashion disaster. Any trend is a disaster if not carried off well. For me, leggings worn as pants were definitely a total fashion disaster of 2009."

It certainly was the year of the Barbie doll and what a Kat walk she did. Looking dolled up may do fine for Katrina, but it didn’t do other fashionistas much good.

"The ultimate fashion faux pas of the year was the baby-doll frilly look that certainly didn’t do well on the Indian body type. Normally, Freida Pinto carries off apparel with aplomb. But the frilly frock she sported on the red carpet recently was out and out a disaster," declares Mandira. That was the barbie look gone bust.

"Boyfriend jeans were another fashion disaster, as they are not very flattering to the Indian woman’s body structure."

Tweaking the traditional. Well, experimenting with traditional Indian attire like the sari is fine up to point. Says Rahul, "One fashion that was highly overrated and went wrong was the sari going really short and getting teamed up with denim and what not. Tweaking the sari to make it contemporary is alright, but teaming it with jackets and making it go too short just doesn’t work," he proclaims.

So, that was the long and short of Season 2009.

Minnisha
Barbie gone BUST: Minnisha and Freida’s
frock look was a faux pas
of the year

Freida Pinto



’10 commandments

Style gurus spell out the trends for Season 2010

Raghavendra Rathore predicts a season of prints in 2010 and says that for women, knee-length dresses will rule.

"Summer prints will see a major comeback, and no, florals are not going to be in. But yes, 2010 will see a spotlight on the white shirt, while in the colour palette, a range of pastels will rule."

As for silhouettes, he says: "The fitted look will be in, especially for men, the body-hugging shirts will be popular. The focus will be on cuts that accentuate the male physique."

(Left) Africa-inspired contrasts will be popular and
(Left) Africa-inspired contrasts will be popular and (right) blue will be the new black in 2010

On embellishments, Rathore predicts, "Slippers and chappals for women and kolhapuris for men will be popular, while accessories that’re strong but cool for the summer, like silver bangles, will be hot. Mobile phone accessories are also going to be in."

Spelling out the colours of the coming season, designer Mandira Wirk says, "Slate and charcoal grays are the new neutrals. Blue is set to be one of the biggest colours for next year. Luminous hues of precious stones—-emerald green, ruby red and sapphire blue—-are the hottest colours for 2010."

"Shoulders are a point of interest for 2010. Invest in clothes with well-defined shoulders. There is a wide range of structured sleeves; look out for the classic leg-of-mutton and other blowsy puff sleeve styles. Evening dresses with innovative drapes will continue to dominate the upcoming season. Asymmetric one-shoulder dresses are there to stay for the next season also."

She adds, "Dresses in rich velvets are something to look out for. Golden fabrics, exotic, shining fabrics and ornate embellishments will rule Indian fashion, as globally they’re a rage right now."

"Warm olive metallic rings and gold belts are the accessories to look out for to add glam quotient to your outfit. Patent heels are in: neon-hued accents will be in vogue in the coming year."

Designer Rahul Mishra predicts that the focus will be on a lot of eco-friendly and organic fabrics and on motifs from Africa. On the palette, he forecasts that off-whites will be the new white and greys and dull blacks will be the new black. Also, indigo is the colour to watch out for.

Africa-inspired palettes with a stark contrast of black and white, and geometric patterns will rule.

"As for silhouettes, the not-so-fitted look will be in. And for all you guys, the boot cut will be the rage. And yes, puff sleeves are going to be the style."

Designer Farah Ali Khan, who launched her cascades jewellery line at HDIL Couture Week in 2009 with sister Susanne Roshan and Genelia d’Souza being the face of this collection, spells out trends 2010 thus: "The coming season will see a lot of accent on one-of-a-kind statement pieces, with nature –inspired collections dominating. Period pieces, Mughal era and Bollywood-inspired designs will rule. Hand-crafted collections will be the flavour as also motifs of lace." — CKB






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