Bewitching hour

Centuries-old temples perched on cliffs, deep forests, interesting flora and fauna, spectacular Aravali ranges, stunning countryside, lively village, a rich history... Jojawar
presents a fascinating canvas, writes Sharmila Chand

ONCE a volatile border between the two ancient kingdoms of Marwar and Mewar — the erstwhile principality of Jojawar is now a village in the Pali district of Rajasthan, 140 km from Jodhpur.

Kesar Bagh, once a garden retreat for the noble family of Jojawar, offers a complete relaxation package for tourists
Kesar Bagh, once a garden retreat for the noble family of Jojawar, offers a complete relaxation package for tourists Photos by the writer

Rawla Jojawar is an 18th century fortress in the foothills of the Aravalis that has been converted into a heritage hotel
Rawla Jojawar is an 18th century fortress in the foothills of the Aravalis that has been converted into a heritage hotel by the royal family

Rabaris — the camel herding ethnic group — still lives in the village. it is a major breeding ground for camels that are showcased in the famous Pushkar camel festival
Rabaris — the camel herding ethnic group — still lives in the village. it is a major breeding ground for camels that are showcased in the famous Pushkar camel festival

The Rawla Jojawar is an 18th century fortress in the foothills of the Aravalis that has been home to many generations of the Jojawar family since 1780. Its serene environs still retain an old-world charm despite a steady stream of tourists.

Though the fort has been converted into a heritage hotel it still remains residence of the Jojawar family, which has opened its doors to let their guests stay with them and share the simple pleasures of life. According to Nagendra Singh and Amitvikram Singh, "Our endeavour is to keep alive the culture and traditions of the village."

Life here is unhurried, and filled with sunshine, conversation and picnics; village walks, safaris, and treks into the nearby forests.

A walk from the historical Rawla Fort Palace through the dwellings of rural folk of Jojawar brings forth an interesting experience. One can saunter through the calm, serene air of the village where one can still hear echoes of the centuries gone by, where the past and present are so inextricably intertwined that it is impossible to separate them.

It is interesting to see that Rabaris — the camel herding ethnic group still exists here. No wonder, Jojawar holds an important place, as it is the major breeding ground for camels to be transported and showcased in the famous Pushkar Camel Festival.

We take a break under the shade of a drooping acacias next to a very beautiful small shrine dedicated to a folk deity – Mamoji, where terracotta horses are offered in return of divine favours.

My real adventure starts early next morning with a jeep safari in the jungle. The nature trail is amazing in Jojawar. While nilgai and Indian jackal are a common sight, the area has some rare birds as well. With over two hundred species of birds in the area, we managed to see blue throated and the Asian paradise flycatcher, varieties of white eyes and red starts, silver bills and prinias. Water bodies host a multitude of water fowl in the winters and if one is lucky one can even spot the very rare Indian skimmer as it gently skims the water surface feeding.

There is an also interesting train safari on offer where the ticket costs just Rs 4. From the fort to the railway station there is ride a vintage Chevy. The train ride offers a total contrast to the Chevy ride, as one may have to travel in the company of total 20 locals, five cows and three goats. From Phulad to the high hills of the Aravalis – the Kambli Ghat, the train ride is as unique as the co-passengers. At one station, you may have the pleasure of hundreds of langurs jumping on to the train windows, some even managing to share your snacks. They jump out as swiftly as they come in and this experience has its own thrill!!

The Rawla Fort Palace hotel also has several prized Marwari Horses – this indigenous breed of the desert known for its loyalty onto death to its master. Riding one of these legendary steeds from their stables is an exciting way to get into areas where no vehicle can go, accompanied by one of the family members. While half a day to full day rides give you the taste of how exciting it can be, the hotel also specialises in organising long-distance horse rides of two to
seven days.

Apart from Rawla Jojawar, Kesar Bagh is another must visit. Once a garden retreat for the noble family of Jojawar, it is modern recreation of the old structure, surrounded by many species of flora and fauna.

It offers a complete relaxation package in the form of various spa treatments at choicest of venues – by the poolside, on the terrace enjoying the views, in the massage room itself or maybe in the shady grove by
the water.

Meal times are celebrations here — accompanied by the haunting melodies of Ratno Jogi, the local devotional singer who is usually asked to sing all-night-long at the shrines of folk deities, or by the gusty drum beats and the uplifting love songs of a Langa band – a tribe dedicated to music from the deserts of western Rajasthan, the atmosphere is defiantly vibrant. Added to that are exotic recipes from the family kitchen like khad murgo or the bajre ro soyhito. Sounds of crickets and frogs form a background to calls of jackal, or lapwings rising up in alarm from one dark side of the lake probably at the sight of a jungle cat, or maybe a distant haunting laugh of a mottled owl.

It’s a bliss losing oneself for a while to the seductions that Jojawar has to offer.

 





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