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Devbagh, a small island on the coast of Karnataka, offers a rare luxury – a peaceful holiday on a private island, writes
Sumitra Senapaty
The small wooden boat wallows through the rolling waves. Late summer sun glistens on the water. Up ahead a small island rises from the horizon, rocks topped with a sliver of green vegetation. As I draw closer I can see the log hut that is to be my home for the next few days. I walk round to the island’s far side, which conceals a little cove and stone pier. There’s just one way to go on the island. A rough path, scattered with pine-like needles from the casurina tree, runs in a straight line up from the cove to the accommodation. Not quite believing I am going to have this entire island almost to myself, I stay silent. The only sound is that of the crickets, and the boatman carrying my luggage up the path. Located just 100 km away from Goa, Devbagh is a tiny island off Karwar near the confluence of the Kali River with the sea on the west coast in Karnataka. Devbagh, which literally means God’s own garden, is a 20-minute boat ride from Karwar. At Devbagh the log huts and tents are well equipped with attached toilets and running hot and cold water. Right across the log huts is the picturesque beach, which is almost a kilometre long, and is only for the use of guests at Devbagh. One can swim, angle, sunbathe or simply lie down. Other options include boating into the sea or frolicking with the banana boat, a popular option for most visitors. Many beach resorts arrange regular boat trips deep into the sea to look for the dolphins. Inspired by the beauty of Devbagh, Rabindranath Tagore wrote his first poem Prakritir Pratishoota. This serene unspoilt beach is an ideal getaway from urban city lights and who knows it may just spur your imagination too! Inside the thatched log hut it’s just basic comforts. The rooms are simply furnished with basic yet comfortable furniture. There’s solar-powered hot water and lights, but no TV or phone and as long as you avoid the typically tourist season, you’re unlikely to clash with anyone else. Walking the length of the island takes about 20 minutes. One side slopes gently into the sea; on the other, a small rocky cliff rises up about 30 feet. Dive in and you realise why the sea is so turquoise, there’s hardly any silt; it seems quite like swimming along the bottom of a vast, natural swimming pool. Then I see it — a shoal of fish is nibbling on seaweed in the shallows, their tails all-flapping several inches above the water.
The island offers an absolutely peaceful holiday with nothing much to do apart from swimming, snorkelling, reading and most importantly eating! Spicy Karwar crab curry is the region’s specialty and food preparations are liberally garnished with coconut. The local fish market at Karwar is an interesting place to visit and look at the variety of fish on offer. Brochures will tell you the number one attraction is total peace and quiet. But what you don’t want to miss at Devbagh are the water sports, weather permitting. Water sports include the banana boat trips, sea cruise to neighbouring uninhabited islands and snorkelling besides sea kayaking and beach volleyball. There is another adventure on offer — a raft trip down the nearby Kali River. There can be no better ways to enjoy the serene beauty of the jungles than from a swiftly moving raft. Tourists are now making a beeline towards Karwar, since it is just two hours from Goa by road. Devbagh is also well connected to Mumbai and Bangalore. The best season to visit is October to May. But the ‘monsoon’ months between June and August are equally enticing – ideal days for ayurvedic treatments, catching up with reading or romance or simply lazing around, watching the Arabian Sea and eating. Quick facts
Getting there: There are regular flights to Goa and Karwar is a two-hour road trip from there. The Konkan Railway also connects to Karwar. Private buses are available from Mangalore, Bangalore and Madgaon (Goa). Karwar is well connected by road to Goa, Belgaum, Hubli-Dharwar, Mangalore and Mysore.
Season: October to May. Remember to book well in advance, particularly on weekends.
Places to visit around Karwar: Gokarna or Cow’s Eyes is 60 km south of Karwar. This coastal town has, among other things, an ancient temple with the Atmalinga. Gokarna is also a famous centre for Sanskrit learning. The Om Beach and the Kutle Beach nearby are also worth a visit.
Yana is 60 km from Gokarna and is a deserted township with unique rock formations. It is also a popular rock-climbers’ haunt.
Bhatkal, 133 km further south from Yana, is a historical township. The ancient port town has temples of Vijayanagar dynasty and many interesting Jain monuments. The scenic holy place of Murdeshwar is 16 km away from Bhatkal.
The Pigeon Island is off the Murdeshwar coast.
Banavasi, 140 km from Karwar, is a temple town mentioned in the Hindu epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata.
Shivganga Falls, Dandeli Wildlife Sanctuary, Magod Falls and Lalguli Falls are some other places worth visiting around Karwar. Sadashivgad Hill Fort and the Naganath temple, where an anthill is worshipped, are also popular with visitors.
Lying off Karwar, apart from Devbagh, are several islands, which, too, merit a trip. These include the islands of Kurumgad, Tilmatti, Anjudeep and Sanyasi.
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