The land of Monpas

Tawang in Arunachal Pradesh is a treat for nature lovers and a heady mix
of history, religion and legends, writes Ritu Sharma

ThIs is the route that the Chinese soldiers took in 1962 to enter the Indian territory. Today known as "the hidden paradise" or "the land of dawn-lit mountains", Tawang is a nature lovers’ delight and a heady mix of history, religion and legends.

The statue of Sakyamuni Buddha in the Tawang monastery in Arunachal Pradesh
The statue of Sakyamuni Buddha in the Tawang monastery in Arunachal Pradesh. It is an eight-metre gilded statue. The Sakyamuni Buddha was the earliest form of the Buddha to be worshipped in India

A view of the Tawang monastery
A view of the Tawang monastery

Located high in the mountain ranges of the Himalayas, at 3,500 metres above sea level, Tawang is a visual treat with vistas of virgin mountain forests, exquisite gompas, quaint villages and tranquil lakes.

The major attractions of the place are the Tawang monastery, one of the largest Buddhist monasteries in India; an all-women monastery and Madhuri waterfalls, named after the Bollywood actress who came here on a film shoot.

The picturesque valley is the home of the Monpas, who are the dominant ethnic group. At least 75 per cent of total population of the district belongs to this tribe.

The Monpas are of Mongoloid descent, well built, and fair in complexion. The oldest record wherein the mention of this region appears is in the Tibetan epic Dowa Sangmo which dates back to the 7th century AD. In the epic, there is a mention of a place called ‘Tana Mandegang’ from where the king Kala Wangpo ruled. People believe that it is the same place where the present monastery - Galden Namgey Lhatse- popularly known today to the world as ‘Tawang Monastery’ is situated.

The 400-year-old hilltop Tawang monastery is built like a fortress and is home to around 600 lamas. It has dormitories, a meeting hall, school, community kitchen, monuments and the main building housing the temple - Dukkang. With its narrow cobbled streets, numerous buildings and the enormous area it occupies, the gompa is like a mini city.

The fifth Dalai Lama, Mera Lama, set out in 1681 searching for a place to construct a monastery. One day after praying for guidance, he found his horse standing quietly on a hilltop and took it as a divine sign. Hence the name Tawang, which means chosen by the horse.

"Locals helped build the monastery and even today they are responsible for looking after it," adds a monk, as others chant softly in the quiet mountain air.

Inside the monastery, the huge 30-foot Buddha statue, made of wood, sits serenely amidst priceless tankhas (scroll-paintings) and Buddhist artefacts. Attached to the gompa is a museum, which displays ancient manuscripts and precious artefacts, evocative of the centuries-old India-Tibet Buddhist trail.

It is a place worth paying a visit because of the collection of huge scriptures, books, gold-lettered Buddhist scriptures, images and tapestries. The Parkhang Hall of the monastery has the library with the rare hand-written and block-painted thankas or manuscripts of revered books like Tangun, Kangyur and Sungbhum. The 108 gold-embossed manuscripts of the "Teachings of Lord Buddha" and 225 volumes of the explanations of Buddha’s teachings covered with specially designed moth-proof silk adorned with paintings are the other rare works of Buddhist literature. The festival of Torgya is held in the 11th Monpa month called the Dawa Chukchipah in the Tawang monastery.

The monastery has recently undergone renovation and bright paintings adorn its walls. Dances and ceremonial celebrations are held in the courtyard, the most important of which is held on the night of Buddha Purnima, the full moon night on which the Buddha was born, attained enlightenment and died.

A few kilometres away is the Thukje Chueling nunnery, run by women monks. Home to around 50 monks, only women are allowed to stay inside the monastery.

To reach Tawang, you drive for 12 hours from Assam’s Tezpur town, a major Indian Air Force base. The road is a visual delight with clouds sometimes literally descending to the ground and ravines breaking the monotony of virgin forests straddling the commanding mountains.

Complementing the scenic journey is the destination. The Jang waterfalls, locally known as Madhuri falls, are worth a watch. Bollywood actress Madhuri Dixit shot for her film Koyla here.

The Indian Army war memorial at Jaswant Garh is another must visit. Dedicated to the martyrs of the 1962 India-China war, the memorial is nestled among mountains overlooking the Tawang-Chu valley.

The best season the visitor can choose for coming to Tawang is between September to November. This time is ideal with clear weather and a little chill in the air. Snow covered landscape can be experienced between December to March.

Though China still claims Tawang is within its territory, the area is peaceful and is not affected by insurgency.

Despite increasing flow of tourists to Arunachal Pradesh, Tawang remains largely unexplored and poor roads can make the journey a really long one. Tourists also need to plan in advance, as inner line permits are needed to visit some areas in and around Tawang. — IANS





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