Food talk
 Saffron seduction

Delicate coral hue, mellow taste and refreshing light presence make
murg kesariya irresistible, writes Pushpesh Pant

THERE is something irresistible about saffron. No, we aren’t referring to the much-abused term in the contemporary political context but in culinary parlance. It may be the most expensive spice in the world, but a little goes a long way and just a hint of it elevates the recipe from plain to pristine verging on perfection. Saffron is the colour of selfless sacrifice — kesariya baana — and strong romantic association — kesariya baalama — and is derived from the Arabic zaafraan. Stigma from 10,00,000 flowers are required to make a pound of the sublimely aromatic substance that breathes lives into a wide range of sweets and savouries.

This is the case with Murg Kesariya. There are many recipes that bear this name — some even tracing their lineage to Nawab Wazid Ali Shah of Awadh — ranging from fat-laden, dried fruit burdened rich ‘delicacies’ to barely fragrant yellow-tinted almost repulsive offerings that one encounters in eateries across the land. Once a friend (now no more a friend after this offence) has terrified us with a monstrosity created by him using saffron essence and edible colour that he insisted deserved this title.

On the other extreme are those crass cooks who decorate the chicken with visible strands of saffron hoping that the garnish will somehow work its magic. Alas! the trick has never passed the test. We have encountered intrepid tandooriya who have dared to drape their tough tikka with saffron but why waste breath on those who jump in where angels fear
to tread?

We have always felt that the presence of saffron should be suggestive and never overpowering. This is the reason that we have fallen for this recipe.

Kesariya murg eschews the mundane haldi, dhania and mirch. Jeera and garam masala are taboo. It also renounces the ubiquitous pyaaz. It has a delicate coral hue, mellow taste, refreshing light presence and a flavour that keeps tantalising you to guess its roots. Fennel, cardamom, mace/nutmeg contribute as much to its seductions as the kesar.

Murgh  Kesariya

Ingredients

Chicken boneless (preferably

culled from breast) 300gm

Hung yogurt/thick sweet dahi 2 tbsp

Ginger garlic paste 1 tbsp

Saunf powder 1 tsp

Sonth powder 1 tsp

Cinnamon powder ½ tsp

Green cardamoms 2-3

Oil 3 tbsp

Whole red chillies for garnish two

Salt to taste

A few strands of mace/a pinch of nutmeg powder

A pinch of saffron (soaked in 3 tbsp lukewarm milk and crushed a little)

Method
Clean, wash and pat dry the chicken. Cut into bite-sized pieces. Wipe clean the whole red chillies. Blend the garlic-ginger paste, along with powdered spices and salt with dahi in a bowl and place the chicken pieces in it. Ensure that these are evenly coated and keep aside for 45 minutes. Heat oil in a pan to smoking point, reduce to medium put the chillies in and remove these almost as soon as these acquire a shine. Reserve for garnish (actually, the garnish is sort of camouflage — leading the diners astray with a false sent). Now put in the cardamoms. As soon as these change colour slightly, add the chicken pieces. Sprinkle the mace/nutmeg powder and the saffron along with the milk. Stir to mix. Cover and cook for about 15 minutes, stirring regularly. Sprinkle a little water if required. Serve with phulka or plain steamed rice. Equally enjoyable hot or cold.





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