Food talk
Magic of two

The pairing of tomatoes and garlic makes this mutton curry hard to resist, writes Pushpesh Pant

WHO doesn’t love curried meats? Mutton, chicken and fish are consumed by tones on the sub-continent and far outweigh the more snobbishly named qormas, kaliyas and salans. By now, everyone is wise to the secret that it is the kari from Tamil Nadu of yore that is the mother of all curries but this knowledge doesn’t ensure that you are guaranteed satisfaction whenever you order the dish.

The problem is more acute with mutton/kid. It takes longer to tenderise and requires greater culinary skills to cope with what we like to call the ‘spicing challenge’. Even when the meat is done to taste more often than not it tastes monotonously the same. There are interesting options in Purani Dilli, Lucknow and Bhopal like alu gosht, gobhi gosht and, of course, tamatar gosht. Seldom have we had a really exciting mutant of these classics at home.

This is the reason we can’t wait to share with our readers the recipe we recently savoured at a friend’s house. The tari was light and exceptionally flavourful. The magic was created by the jugalbandi of tomatoes and garlic. We have in past sang paens to a single ingredient providing the key flavour e.g. adraki champ or methi macchi or kali mirch ka murg. Now we admit that the pairing of two tasty notes make no less powerful an impact. Tomatoes lend a pleasant touch of sourness and accent the tint and garlic contributes not only its distinct taste but also enhances the warm after-glow. All in all a very satisfying mutton curry that can hold its own against all. We also feel that using mustard oil instead of the ubiquitous refined oil also chips in this symphony. Do please try out this recipe just right for the late monsoon.

tamatarwala  lehsuni  gosht

Ingredients

Mutton 1 kg

Onions 300 gm

Tomatoes 500 gm

Garlic (medium sized) 2 pods

Cinnamon 1inch stick

Brown cardamoms 2

Black peppercorns ½ tsp

Deghi/Kashmiri mirch 1 tsp

Jeera powder 1 tsp

Dhaniya powder 2 tsp

Mustard oil 100 ml

Salt to taste

A small sprig of fresh coriander (for garnish)

Method
Clean wash and pat dry the meat. Peel and thinly slice the onions. Peel and grind to paste the cloves of garlic. Wash and chop or puree the tomatoes. Heat oil in a pan to smoking point then reduce heat to medium and put in the whole spices. As soon as these begin to change colour, add the onions. Stir-fry the onions till these are light golden in colour. Then add the garlic paste and powdered spices, along with the salt. Stir-fry for a minute. Add tomatoes and continue frying till the fat begins to separate. Now put in the meat and continue frying for about 15 minutes. Pour a cup of water and cook under pressure for five minutes. Remove from heat and let the pressure come down on its own. Transfer to serving dish and garnish.





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