A paradise in wilderness

Sumitra Senapaty goes on an African safari with a difference — which offers a gustatory adventure

AN African safari always conjures up images of a land of abundant wild game, an open drive through veldt, or the famed bush and stunning vistas, which are a veritable feast for the eyes. But in recent years the continent is offering safaris that cater to your other senses as well – the food and wine safaris in the land of plenty of fresh produce. These safaris offer the best of both worlds, combining the wild charm of Africa with its culinary offerings.

Setting off in an open safari vehicle at dawn, heading across the majestic & Beyond Ngala Private Game Reserve in the Timbavati region of Kruger National Park, we drive across the hilly ground for more than an hour, zigzagging through high grass.

Following a sweet, musky scent in the air, we spot a herd of impala, an antelope so plentiful they’re dubbed the ‘Big Macs’ of the savannah – fast-food snacks for some of South Africa’s predators!

On my first drive, the game is plentiful, a pride of lions and rhinos, buffalo, leopards and elephants, the so-called ‘Big Five’ of African wildlife plus zebras, impalas, wildebeests, waterbuck, crocodiles, hyenas, giraffes, eagles, wild cats and wart hogs.

Midway across this dramatically beautiful landscape, cold and hot picnic boxes are unpacked. Local African rugs and blankets are spread on every available rock and ground. Out come Koeksisters doused with orange-infused syrup and served with liberal helpings of dates and candied lemon. A kind of doughnut, Koeksisters are made from plaited dough which is deep fried then plunged into sweet ginger and lemon juice syrup. Then there are fresh strawberries, iced ginger and lemongrass tea and local cheese.

Inspired by the savage beauty and allure of Africa, & Beyond’s (formerly CC Africa’s) kitchen safari is a journey through the lodges of Ngala, Phinda, Kirkman’s and Serengeti, where ‘chefs of the soil’ have created a fusion of tastes and sights of the bush, exotic dishes, prepared and served in some of the most dramatic settings in Africa. The itinerary is simple – game drive and eat, travel from bush to savannah to veldt to lodge to game reserve and never let more than a few minutes go by between meals. In other words: a food lover’s perfect paradise.

Years ago, in the wake of apartheid, you wouldn’t have found much in the way of culinary tourism here. Today the country’s young rising chefs ingeniously use local ingredients to create delicious modern South African dishes.

A great sampler is ‘bobotie’, kind of shepherd’s pie — minced beef, slow-cooked with curry powder and lots of aromatic spices, is placed in a bowl, topped with an egg custard and baked in the oven. It is served with geelrys (rice cooked with turmeric, raisins and cloves) and accompanied by blatjang (fruit chutney).

At sundown the ranger, puts aside his gun for a silver martini-shaker. "Welcome to bush dinner", says our naturalist and companion guide. The smell of roasting meat and potatoes fill the still African night.

Afrikaners traditionally begin every festive meal with bread and jam. After glasses of ‘muddy elephant’, an amarula-spiked heady cocktail, there is a torrent of dishes representing the cuisine of South Africa. I fill up on baked goat’s cheese in vine leaves and a duck with chilli marmalade, while our guide speaks about his beautiful country and the intricacies of South African cookery.

Amarula is believed to be an aphrodisiac, made from the intoxicating berries of South Africa’s rare Marula tree. Once a year these ripened berries drop to the ground. Their exotic scent and flavour drives the elephants wild, and they often ‘over binge’ and become drunk... and particularly amorous, which is quite a sight.

The camp, consisting of a main lodge and six tents /chalets, which exude exclusivity. Cocktails in the bush consisting of South Africa’s best wines, springbok carpaccio at a candlelit dinner. Beds with continental quilts and netting, baths drawn to order in complete wilderness, a luxury safari is one of those rare experiences that live up to its promise though it won’t come cheaply.

The lodge locales seem like they are straight ‘Out of Africa,’ offering the finest of South African cuisine — ostrich fillets with rosemary, aAn outdoor ‘brai’ or barbecue features smoked springbok carpaccio, roasted kudu, and many more exotic dishes.

Prices at &Beyond lodges vary from camp to camp, ranging from $660 to $1500 per person per night. The high cost is due to comfort in the wild. Also at South Africa’s private reserves and luxury camps, guests are sure to see game, that too, the Big Five.

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