Blues of the jeans
market
With small labels
pushing into the shops, brands like Levi Strauss, Wrangler and
Lee, which once held cult status, are losing out customers. The
blue jeans market is seeking to rediscover sex appeal, writes Theresa Muench
Akshay Kumar as the brand ambassador of Levi’s 501 Jean ‘Live Unbuttoned’ campaign
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Levi Strauss’
501 jeans, the self-appointed original blue jean, robust and
indestructible, became the epitome of the denim trend that
started more than 40 years ago. But the western look of the
American cowboy is pass`E9. The blue jean market, once the
strongest revenue producing segments of the fashion industry,
has been transformed.
Small labels are
pushing into the shops, giving jeans a touch of luxury and
uniqueness — fresh, unconventional and cool. In order to keep
pace, the established brands grouped around Levis need a new
strategy.
It’s been a long
time since Levi’s jeans commercials held a cult status around
the world. A glimpse of the tanned muscular stomach of a guy in
the laundromat, the slow unbuttoning of a fly on 501 jeans —
blue jean advertisements once were miniature works of art
sensually filmed by Hollywood directors. But now the veteran
brands Levi Strauss, Wrangler and Lee appear to have lost their
sex appeal.
The companies are
noticing it in their profits. Levi Strauss recorded a loss of $4
million in the second quarter of the business year. Revenue is
sinking dramatically. At the beginning of the year earnings
already had slipped by half. Wrangler and Lee, which belong to
the US apparel company VF Corporation, saw revenue sink in the
second quarter.
The jeans market
desperately needs a "dose of excitement", said analyst
Katrin Magnussen of the US market research institute Mintel.
Particularly in an economic crisis, customers need an incentive.
"This
currently is being created either by designer jeans or by
inexpensive jeans available at warehouse-style stores,"
Magnussen said. Brands like Levi’s, Wrangler, Lee and Diesel
occupy the middle of the market and therefore lose out.
"They have to
create more excitement over their brands," Magnussen said.
They can either start making cheaper products, which risks
devaluing their names, or start selling premium products, which
could mean they lose their core customers.
"The big
brands are tired," said Patrick Kuhnert of Fourteen Ounce,
an affiliate of a Berlin fashion trade show organiser.
"Diesel, Reply and Levi’s are having problems with their
standing," he said.
Trendsetters
currently aren’t buying 501 jeans. Instead they are choosing
PRPS, an abbreviation for product with a purpose.
An example is
pants made from African cotton costing between $424 and $706.
Kuhnert noted dryly that they aren’t exactly mainstream
garments. But not only premium brands are getting traction in
the current market. The Scandinavian brands Acne and Cheap
Monday are targeted at young, very fashion-conscious buyers with
little money to spend.
Another example is
the French label April 77, backed by former musician Brice
Partouche. Its jeans sell for 50 to 80 euros.
One rule applies
to all: The more individual, the better. The Swedish brand Nudie
advertises with "naked facts", telling buyers to wear
the jeans for six months before washing them. The result is a
unique pair of jeans with various washed out patches.
"The
established, large brands have to constantly recharge their
image to maintain interest," said Nina Piatscheck of a
German textile trade magazine. Levi Strauss also has to keep
pace and it is trying to do so by reflecting on its roots with
the slogan "Go forth".
In the economic
crisis, Levi’s is seeking to tap into a new American
pioneering spirit with these words: "Looking forward, never
back. No longer content to wait for better times. I will make
better times."
Thus, the cowboy
images are back along with the prairie dust. This is what Levi’s
hopes will again lure a generation that wasn’t even born when
the old advertisements first came out — the 18 to 34-year-olds
— to buy its jeans. Levi’s aims to be the uniform of the
post-economic crisis.
Garment industry
experts doubt it will bring much success in the highly
competitive jeans market. In the trade publication Advertising
Age, Bob Garfield, a marketing specialist, recently wrote that
Levi’s biggest marketing problem is its image as a discount
store jean "amid premium-denim hipsters".
He said the ads
were "too cleverly manufactured, too pompous, too
precise", adding that he expected them to generate
"little more than a rolling of eyes on a mass scale". —
DPA
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