Winsome Winchester 

Popular for its architecture, the unique heritage city of Winchester is packed with
historic buildings and museums. The resting place of Jane Austen, its tranquil countryside
is an inspiration for many artists who still live here, writes Nivedita Choudhuri

AN unspoilt cathedral city on the edge of the South Downs, Winchester is England’s ancient capital and the former seat of King Alfred, the Great. Today, Winchester combines the best of city life with the freshness of the surrounding countryside. An hour’s journey from London, this is England, as it ought to be and was once.

One of the England’s most popular tourist centres, it is famous for its cathedral, which has its origins in the 7th century when a Christian church was first built on this site. The present building’s construction began in 1079 in the Romanesque style.

The cathedral is at the heart of Alfred’s Wessex and a diocese, which once stretched from London’s Thames to the Channel Islands. Its bishops were men of enormous wealth and power, none more so than William of Wykeham, twice the Chancellor of England, Founder of Winchester College and New College, Oxford.

Winchester Cathedral is the longest in England and has the longest nave and overall length of any Gothic cathedral in Europe. Over the years, much remodelling and rebuilding has taken place, but some examples of the powerful Norman work still exist in the transepts and the Chapter House. A remarkably strong, vaulted Norman crypt also survives beneath the east end.

Dominating the east end is a magnificently carved limestone screen constructed in the late 15th century that displays an impressive gallery of Saxon bishops and monarchs. Much of the carved decoration, including the splendid craftsmanship of the choir stalls, is, surprisingly, non-religious and delightfully amusing. `A0Notwithstanding the light-heartedness of these features, everything within Winchester Cathedral is both skilfully and lavishly decorated.

Apart from its wealth of architectural and historical possessions, the cathedral is also noted for an impressive array of famous connections. There’s the shrine of St Swithun from the 9th century, the burial of King Alfred the Great in AD 899, several royal coronations and marriages, and the grave of Jane Austen.

However, perhaps the most memorable event in the history of this great building was that undertaken by William Walker, the man known as ‘the diver who saved Winchester Cathedral’. In 1905, several cracks appeared in the south and east sides of the church. It was feared that in time the building might collapse unless major underpinning of the foundations was carried out. Already an extremely difficult task, it was made worse because of high water levels preventing access to the 11th century timber rafts. Therefore, this diver was employed to work up to six hours a day, often in 20ft deep water, and in total darkness for a period of some six years. Certainly, if it hadn’t been for Walker’s tireless dedication to his job, this wondrous cathedral might have been lost forever.

From the cathedral, visitors walk out on to the High Street, which is home to some fascinating buildings with Regency and Elizabethan bow-fronted windows. The Romans’ east to west route through the city now has a mix of traditional and nationally-known stores. Plan your shopping trip to coincide with the bustling provisions market, which takes place every Wednesday through to Saturday. Or visit the country’s largest farmers’ market on the second and last Sunday in the month for a feast of the finest local produce.

Another attraction of this cathedral city is Winchester College, which was founded in the 14th century and is believed to be the oldest continuously running school in England. The charter of foundation was granted in 1382 and the first scholars, 70 in all, entered the school in 1394 with only two schoolmasters. Most features of this foundation are still in place. The college now has over 600 ‘Commoners’ and over 80 full-time teachers or ‘dons’.

The fascinating southwest quarter of the city has played an important part in the city’s defence since Roman times. The former site of Winchester Castle, today one can marvel at the legendary Arthurian Round Table in the Great Hall, at the military history at Peninsula Barracks and enjoy the view from the roof of the Westgate.

The Westgate is a fortified gateway that served as a debtors’ prison for 150 years and is now home to an interesting collection of weights and measures. The elegant redbrick buildings of Peninsula Barracks are home to one of the most sizeable collections of regimental history outside London, in the form of five museums.

The Great Hall, the only remaining part of the castle, is a fine 13th century hall that was once the centre of court and government life. The Arthurian Round Table has been housed here for over 700 years.

England’s ancient capital city has plenty to keep its visitors amused but the city itself is only half the story. Winchester is the gateway to the South Downs and the surrounding countryside is stunning. It is rural Hampshire at its very best – dotted with picturesque market towns and villages, beautiful gardens and family attractions.

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