Where devout find peace

Hardwar is one of the oldest living cities of the world. It is situated on the banks of the holy Ganga, famous among Hindus for its purity and ability to wash away sins, writes Gyan Marwah

WHEN the Ganga flows out of the Himalayas and comes gushing to Hardwar, it is an overwhelming sight. One of the premiere temple towns of north India, Hardwar is situated in the foothills of Mount Shivalik and on the banks of the Ganga.

Hardwar has always remained a major shaktipeeth for the devout. Its significance can be gauged from the fact that it has earned the sobriquet of the ‘Corridor of gods’. Legend has it that the Ganga, which flows through the town, has been sanctified by the powerful Trinity of Lord Brahma, Vishnu and Mahesh.

Pilgrimage gateway

The holy city is the gateway to the pilgrimage of Uttarakhand, and has been variously described as Mayapuri, Gangadwar and Mokshadwar in the ancient scriptures and epics. Although Hardwar finds mention in the Chinese scholartraveller Hsiung Tsang’s seventh century travels, its many temples were constructed comparatively recently, and are home to many exquisite idols and illustrated scenes from the Hindu epics.

Being one of the oldest living cities of the world, Hardwar also finds mention in ancient Hindu scriptures. The town’s history is said to stretch from the period of Lord Buddha (563483 B.C.).

Har Ki Pauri (the footstep of God) is the most sanctified place here. It is supposed to be the precise place where the Ganga leaves the mountains and enters Hardwar. The river’s ability and purity to wash away sins at this spot is believed to be strongest, and the belief is furthered strengthened by the legendary footprint of Lord Vishnu.

Ganga aarti

Each evening at sunset, priests perform
the Ganga aarti, or river worship, at Har Ki Pauri, when diyas are set afloat on the river to drift downstream while priests engage in elaborate rituals.

For most pilgrims the next important place is goddess Mansa Devi Temple on a hillock above the city. It is imperative for any tourist to take the ropeway to the temple. The temple has a statue of the goddess having three mouths and five arms. There is another statue with eight arms. The temple also presents a stunning and panoramic view of Hardwar with the Ganga gushing through it.

The Daksha Mahadev Temple is another place of worship, which attracts big crowds. King Daksha Prajapati, father of Sati (Lord Shiva’s first wife), performed a yajana here for which he did not invite Lord Shiva. Sati was so humiliated at this snub that she is said to have immolated herself in the havan kund. In anger the followers of Lord Shiva killed King Daksha, though later Shiva brought him back to life. The temple is a tribute to this legend.

Sapt Rishi ashram

Nearby is the Sapt Rishi ashram where the Ganga splits in seven currents. According to folklore, this is the river’s way of paying respect to the Sapt (seven) Rishis meditating here. There is also the Bhimgoda Tank (said to have been formed by a blow of Bhima’s knee).

Then there is the Pawan Dham, which is famous for its Hanuman temple built with pieces
of glass.

One of the most significant events here is the Kumbh mela, which attracts millions of pilgrims who come to bathe in the holy waters. The Kumbh comes to Hardwar every 12 years. The rest of the time it goes in threeyearly rotation to Allahabad, Nasik, Ujjain.

In addition to the main ghat, a series of smaller ghats extend along one of the banks, with large orange and white lifeguard towers at intervals to ensure that bathing pilgrims don’t get swept away.

Along with the usual religious paraphernalia (prasaad, images of the deities and religious pamphlets) are scores of tiny stalls crammed along both sides of the bazaar, selling an assortment of goods, including tiffins, shawls, ayurvedic medicines, brassware, glass bangles, wooden whistles, bamboo canes
and baskets.

Religious significance

Down the ages, the religious importance of Hardwar has gained more impetus as it has become a venue for purification of the mind, body and soul.

Yet, beyond the mystic aura and mythology, Hardwar has not only remained the abode of the weary in body, mind and spirit, but also served as a centre of attraction for learning about the ancient Indian arts, science
and culture.

The city’s long-standing position as a great source for ayurvedic medicines and herbal remedies as well as its unique gurukul school of traditional education give the city a unique flavour. Many of the classes are conducted on the banks of the river.

Since Hardwar is one of the first towns where the Ganga emerges from the mountains to touch the plains, the water is crystal clear and cool. Lush green forests and small ponds add to the scenic beauty.

It is said that when the gods left their footprints in Hardwar, they also left an indelible mark on the spiritual ethos of the devout Hindus, who would follow their holy path for the rest of their lives. — NF

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