The depiction displays the oneness of all life forms.  It is such a delightful and joyous creature, with the qualities of an elephant, cow, deer and even a horse Photos: Benoy K. Behl

Composite Creature, Stupa II: The depiction displays the oneness of all life forms. It is such a delightful and joyous creature, with the qualities of an elephant, cow, deer and even a horse Photos: Benoy K. Behl

SANCHI is known for its stupas, monasteries, temples and pillars dating from the 3rd century BC to the 12th century. The most famous of these monuments, the Sanchi Stupa 1, was originally built by Mauryan emperor Ashoka, the then governor of Ujjayini (now Ujjain), whose wife Devi was the daughter of a merchant from the adjacent Vidisha. Their son Mahindra and daughter Sanghamitra were born in Ujjayini and sent to Sri Lanka, where they converted the king, the queen and their people to Buddhism.

When Buddha achieved Enlightenment, the armies of Mara are frustrated beyond measure
Mara’s Army, North Gateway, Inner face: When Buddha achieved Enlightenment, the armies of Mara are frustrated beyond measure


Queen Maya’s Dream, East Gateway: An excellent example of the narrative scenes is the one depicting the dream of Queen Maya. According to Buddhist lore, Buddha came to Queen Maya as an elephant in her dream and entered her womb

This most significant Buddhist art was created under the rule of the Satavahana kings, who personally revered Hindu deities. During the first 600 years almost all of the art based on Buddhist themes that one can see today, was made under the rule of Hindu kings. The earliest known images of Gajalakshmi are found in the Buddhist art. She is a common deity in Hindu, Jain and Buddhist monuments.

The Sanchi stupas, located on a low hill next to Vidisha, are the finest surviving example of early Buddhist stupas. Halfway up the hill is a stupa that contains the remains of prominent Buddhist teachers of the Mauryan period. The railing or vedika made around the stupa dates to around 100 BC.

The vedika has medallions and half-medallions in relief (carvings within the stone). Corner pillars at the entrances are fully carved. The deity of prosperity and abundance, Lakshmi, is shown here being lustrated by elephants, which pour water over her.

A Chunar sandstone pillar fragment, shining with the proverbial Mauryan polish, lies near Stupa 1 and carries the famous edict of Ashoka, warning against schism in the Buddhist community. Stupa 1 was found empty, while relics of the two disciples of Buddha enshrined in the adjacent Stupa III were taken away to England. The nearby modern temple has a reliquary containing the remains of a Buddhist teacher from another stupa outside Sanchi.

The greatest surviving Buddhist stupa of the period before Christ is on top of the hill at Sanchi. It is believed to have enshrined the relics of Buddha. This stupa was originally made in the third century BC. There is an Ashokan pillar at the southern entrance. In the middle of the second century BC its size was doubled and its older wooden railings were replaced with massive stone ones.

The best-known sculpture of the Sanchi stupas is the exquisite shalabhanjika, who depicts the fertility and abundance of Nature
Shalabhanjika, East Gateway: The best-known sculpture of the Sanchi stupas is the exquisite shalabhanjika, who depicts the fertility and abundance of Nature

By the end of the first century BC, the Satavahanas, kings of the Deccan region, extended their rule to Central India. They worshipped Hindu deities. Major stone renovations in their time made this stupa one of the most significant of all Buddhist monuments. Four gloriously carved 34-feet-high stone gates or torans were made. They were completed in the first century. The traditions of art established during the reign of Sunga kings achieved greater sophistication in these magnificent torans.

As many as 631 inscriptions on the torans tell that the carvings were the donations of the people of Vidisha. The art was created for gardeners, merchants, bankers, fishermen, housewives, householders, nuns and monks. Women made almost half of the donations.

The reliefs on the torans bring us the Jatakas (tales) of Buddha’s previous lives, as well as events from the life of Gautam Buddha. The setting of the stories richly reflects the contemporary lifestyle. The Sanchi art is the most important visual record of the architecture and lifestyle of the period.

In this form of art, the focus was not on the personality of Buddha. ‘Buddhahood’ was represented by symbols. The wheel represents the first teaching of the Buddhist Dharma; the Bodhi tree represents Enlightenment; while footprints and an umbrella over a vacant space proclaim the presence of the "Enlightened One".

The stupa at Sanchi has an inscription on the eastern gateway, which mentions that the exquisite carvings on the gateways are the work of ivory carvers of Vidisha. Indeed, the stone is so finely carved here that it reflects the care and detail of work on delicate ivory.

A visit to Sanchi stupas is vital for understanding the spirit of Buddhism.

Capturing the spirit

WHILE covering the recent Parliamentary poll in the heart of India — Madhya Pradesh — I stopped at the famous Buddhist pilgrimage destination, Sanchi. It is situated 50 km from the state capital of Bhopal. Here, I met famous art historian and photographer Benoy K. Behl (52).

It was an interesting chance meeting. His latest photographic exhibition "Sanchi Stupas and the Beginnings of the Buddhist Art" has sparked a debate as he has thrown fresh light on these monuments. The art of the Sanchi stupas is the best known and, perhaps, the most significant early art of Buddhism in the world. An exhibition of Sanchi stupas was organised recently in New Delhi by Bharatiya Vidya Bhavan and the Madhya Pradesh Tourism Department.

The Sanchi torans, or gateways, tower high above the visitors and it is not easy to concentrate on many of their details. But Behl’s camera takes one atop a tall ladder and brings startlingly clear close-up details. Behl’s spectacular photographs present the Sanchi stupas’ art of Buddhism in a clear and fresh light.

Behl’s extensive documentation helps in placing the great art of Sanchi in a fresh perspective. The close connection between the Buddhist, Jain and Hindu forms of art are clearly revealed in the Sanchi stupas.

It is better to learn about the Buddhist art in India, especially about the Sanchi stupas in Behl’s own words, as he is known for his pioneering work in the documentation of the vast art heritage of India, much of which is in remote corners of the country.

Behl says stupa is a symbol of formless eternal or the presentation of enlightenment. Many people define stupas as "spiritual monuments". Generally, these are now associated with Buddhism. "But stupas existed even before the birth of Buddhism. There are Jain stupas, too," says Behl.

The Tibetan word for stupa is Chorten, which means "the basis of offering". It is also said to be a symbol of an enlightened mind, and the path to its realisation.

Behl is known for his studies on Buddhism. The Victoria and Albert Museum, London, recently screened his film The Untold Story of Buddhism. The film, which tells about the true meaning of a stupa and about the development of Buddha’s image, was also screened by the Nehru Centre, London, and by the Rubin Museum of Art, New York.`A0`A0

Talking about his study of the Sanchi stupas, Behl says, "I have reached a conclusion that there was an entirely cosmopolitan patronage of the monuments of all faiths in India; the fact that the earliest represented deities were common to all faiths in India at that time; and that the ancient artistic heritage of India was, in fact, not created by kings, but was patronised by a large number of common people".

"A look at the ancient Indian art is very inspiring. This art may also help us to be discerning in adopting new cultural manners in the modern world. There is much in our tradition which preserves human values and helps us to live as fine persons," says Behl. — MM





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