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The story of Hyderabad, the centre of nawabi culture in the south, is the story of IN the heart of old Hyderabad City, the Charminar, surrounded by four intricately carved minarets, has stood majestically for more than 400 years, silently witnessing the passage of time. In complete contrast, the new Rajiv Gandhi International Airport near Shamshabad is about 22 km from Hyderabad City and just about a few months old. Built on an area of 5,400 acres and equipped with world class facilities, it is a testimony to the growing modernisation of the fifth largest metro in India.
As the editor and author bring together the works of 18 different writers, we are taken on an unforgettable journey to the very soul of Hyderabad. Every chapter covers a distinct subject with the writers keeping readers engaged from the beginning to the very end with their lively and often passionate narrations. The writers, including Vanaja Banagiri herself, give delightful insight of a city that never fails to mesmerise with its diversities. But how much has the City of Nizams really changed? For writer Lakshmi Devi Raj it is very different today and far less beautiful than the place she grew up in. As she reminisces in her piece Ganga-Jamuna Culture, you almost feel a sense of loss. Hyderabad of the present day is plagued by chaotic development with buildings mushrooming at every corner, while the old architecture and heritage remain neglected. One cannot but agree with her that the old Hyderabad should have been preserved with development being confined to the periphery of the old city. Change, no doubt, is a natural progression and she accepts it by saying, "Yes, we do need change, but change for the better should be welcome." Vanaja elaborates on the changing architectural landscape in her All Things Hyderabadi with a sense of realism. The charming homes with gardens found in a few areas such as the Jubliee Hills, are becoming scarce. Homes that once held memories and untold stories are now being demolished and transformed into apartments to be sold at exorbitant prices. But there is also a glimmer of hope as the arts and crafts village of Shilparamam preserves the traditional handicrafts and form of theatre and dance. Quite in contrast is the neighbouring HITEC area that accommodates modern eclectic structures that go with the ambience of a global IT hub. The metamorphsis of Hyderabad is not, however, confined to the landscape. Attitudes, too, are changing as the younger generation redefines everything that until now has been known as Hyderabadi. It is their restlessness to be part of what is deemed as hip and happening that is steering the course of Hyderabad’s destiny. Nawabi air is no longer there and the lifestyle is gradually becoming more focussed and career-oriented. As Banagiri puts it, "A 20 something doesn’t bat an eyelid before she picks up Jimmy Choo shoes or a Prada bag. And the big fat middle-aged Hyderabadi has turned into a six-pack exhibitionist strutting his stuff. Male manicures are a daily norm and Tequila shots nightly rituals.". Many Hyderabadis are living a life where everyday seems to be a party. Dinaz Noria, the city’s celebrity designer and wedding-planner, would surely agree. In her article The Big Fat Hyderabadi Wedding, she narrates wonderfully the changing trends as weddings become bigger and flashier. Diverse communities of Hyderabad make weddings an interesting affair to organise with a number of rituals and ceremonies to be planned in detail. Earlier, whole family would participate in putting a wedding together with groups being formed and tasks being delegated. But in an age of busy schedules and careers, most people prefer to hand the responsibility to professionals such as the wedding planners, designers, caterers and so on. Noria also observes, "Today’s girls and boys go to great lengths to make sure their once-in-a-lifetime (hopefully!) event is special in all aspects. They know their mind. They participate at every stage of the planning. Even if their parents are involved, major decisions are taken by the bride and the groom. The best part is that they don’t pinch pennies." There are more venues to choose from and the innovative dishes add an extra flavour to the traditional cuisine. Wedding celebrations have become grander,while the basic rituals and customary practices have remained unchanged. So, what makes the weddings in Hyderabad very special? "Fusion of old world charm with contemporary trends," Noria sums it up Any discussion about Hyderabad would be incomplete without a mention of its cuisine. The rich delicacies with distinct aroma and ingredients, have been developed over centuries. One of the most popular dishes, the shammi kebab, actually has its origin in Greece. Breads such as shermal or lukmi (bread stuffed with savoury mince meat) are an important part of any Hyderabadi meal. Moreover, bread is also used as a base for a popular sweet dish ‘Double ka Meetha’. Although several famous dishes originate from the city, it is the Hyderabadi Biryani with its strong Mughlai flavour that is the most famous. Added to the experience is the dining place or Shahi Dastarkhan with its cotton mattresses, bolsters and a usually low dining table still hold a place of reverence in every Hyderabadi household. But while Pratibha Karan’s Hyderabadi Cuisine takes us through the rich and extensive legendary cuisine of Hyderabad in great depth, Shankar Krishnamurthy narrates his experience introducing diverse international cuisines to the city through his restaurant Fusion 9. So today, while cuisines such as Thai, Vietnamese and so on jostle for attention side by side, the charm of the old traditional restaurants and biryani retains its popularity. The other articles in the book are equally interesting as they give us a glimpse into the other aspects of Hyderabad such as language, sports, Apollo Hospital, the contribution of Parsis and the evolution of theatre. There are also amazing stories and memories of a Hyderabad that has long been swept by the tides of change. The new Hyderabad is different but as you hear the old Hyderabadi Urdu being spoken at every corner and feel the warmth of the people, you feel the charm of the old Hyderabad. The Ganga-Jamuna etiquette that Lakshmi Devi Raj recalls was about knowing people not by their religion — a Hindu or a Muslim, but simply as uncle and aunt. The unique way of life that paid attention to the Hyderabadi identity first and to the religious affiliation much later, is a fitting example of communal harmony. As Mohammad Ali Baig so rightfully puts it in his piece, "It showed us that Hyderabadiyat was, and still is, a sense of patriotism." The City of Nizams:
Hyderabad Hazir Hai. — TWF
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Both
represent the dual image of Hyderabad, where the past struggles to be
remembered as modern buildings dot the skyline with towering apartment
complexes, malls and multiplexes. A recently published book, Writings
from the City of Nizams: Hyderabad Hazir Hai, edited by
Vanaja Banagiri captures beautifully this struggle between the
preservation of past legacy and an attempt to keep pace with the
modern world.