Food talk
 Check out this Chettinad

Aromatic and flavourful, the resplendent Chettinad culinary repertoire
is light and easy to cook, writes Pushpesh Pant

THE Chettiyars from the present-day Tamil Nadu are famous as intrepid travellers and international traders millennia before globalisation was even a twinkle in the eyes of its parents. The word, we are told, is related to sreshthi (literally elite and phonetically recalling seth derived from sreshtha a rich or noble person "a man of wealth and taste"). The region they dwelt in was called Chettinadu (familiar to many as Chettinad) and exploits of these adventurous merchant princes are extolled in the Jataka Tales. Their imprint remains indelible as far away as the present-day Indonesia and India-China.

These seafarers controlled commerce on the spice route and it is not surprising that they brought home from their journeys exotic ingredients and influences that allowed an exciting gastronomic fusion to take place in southern India.

Chettinad culinary repertoire is truly resplendent — aromatic and flavourful, sharp and piquant but stopping short of pungent. Peppercorns add the zing and chillies (whole red roasted ones) are mostly for garnish. Cloves and star anise are the signature spices. Coriander is lavishly used but only when freshly roasted and ground. Cumin may or may not hover in the background while cinnamon seldom fails to register its presence. There are no taboos against non-vegetarian fare and the meats consumed by Hindus are relished, along with fish, fowl and game.

It was a revelation to us many moons ago that the land of soaring gopurams, Kanjivaram silk saris, Chola bronzes and lyrical Bharatanatyam had much more on offer on the plantain leaf than idli-dosa-vadai-sambar-rasam et al.

Another endearing feature of this genre is that the recipes are light and quick cooking. A subtle shift in spicing gear provides an entirely different ride. Appearances are deceptive — Chettinad fish, chicken and mutton don’t taste the same. A friend belonging to this community has kindly shared some family recipes that can allow our beloved readers to share the joys of Chettinad kitchen in the comfort of their homes.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients

Chicken (skin removed and cut in pieces) 1 kg

Oil 1cup

Large onion (chopped) one

Fresh ginger (scraped and finely chopped) 1 inch piece

Cloves garlic (finely chopped) 4-6

Red chilli powder 1 tbsp

Fresh coconut 1

Poppy seeds 2 tsp

Fennel seeds 1 tsp

A cinnamon stick 1 inch long

Green cardamoms 3-4

Cloves 2-3

Turmeric powder 1 tsp

Tomatoes (medium, chopped) 2

Coriander leaves (chopped) 1/4 cup

Salt to taste

Juice of one lime

A small sprig of curry leaves

Method
Grind the coconut with the poppy and fennel seeds, cinnamon, cardamom, cloves and turmeric to obtain a fine paste. Heat oil in a large pan and fry the onions until light brown. Add the ginger, garlic and red chilli powder with the spice paste. Continue frying for 3-4 minutes. Then add the chicken and fry for another 6-7 minutes. Add the tomatoes. When the moisture evaporates, add two cups water and salt to taste and stir well. Cook, uncovered, until the chicken is done to taste. Sprinkle the limejuice along with the curry leaves. Garnish with the coriander leaves.





HOME