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A journey through the camel country is an unforgettable experience, writes Nutan Sehgal
Rajasthan is no longer the mysterious unknown desert trudged only on a camel. Today the state is well connected with all modes of transportation. But the fascination for the camel and the desert remains. The Desert Circuit comprising the triangle of Jodhpur, Jaisalmer and Bikaner is the best region for a camel safari. The three cities are surrounded by sand dunes and picturesque dhanis (small villages of no more than half a dozen houses) are the only signs of civilisation here. As one motors down from Jodhpur through an unending sea of sand, Jaisalmer seems to rise out of the dunes. Nothing can really prepare you for the sheer magic of this desert city of Rajasthan. The majestic yellow Jaisalmer Fort seem to emerge from the desert haze. A golden extension of the desert etched against the sky as if in a fairy tale. The small market located just outside the fort is the main hub of activity. The first thing to do here is to gear up for a closer look of the sands. A camel safari through the sandy track, passing remote villages and the unforgettable experience of watching the sunset over the desert. A camel safari from Jaisalmer is an exhilarating experience as one meanders through sand dunes and, can even see some of Rajasthan’s unique wildlife like the Chinkara and the desert fox or even the Great Indian Bustard. The safari covers around 20 km a day. There are usually 10 to 12 camels clubbed together. Carts, loaded with supplies and tents, accompany the safari. Local musicians and the cooking staff form an important part of the caravan. The safari can be between two to seven days. Most itineraries are planned in the region of Bikaner, Khimsar, Osian and Jaisalmer. Night halts are usually taken near a village to provide an opportunity to mingle with the locals and have an insight into the traditional way of life and culture. The best season for a camel safari is from November to mid-April. There’s a word of advise for first-time visitors. A costlier package doesn’t necessarily mean you get to see more, it means only a little more comfort. You still have to camp in the desert and eat the food cooked on the makeshift fireplace. The music is the same and so are the local dances and the surrounding sands. For the citydweller it is essential to carry a sunhat and a light scarf to cover the neck as days are hot and at certain stretches the wind could be very strong and turn into a sandstorm suddenly. An umbrella is also useful as it rains occasionally. A sunscreen cream, sunglasses, water, torch and first-aid kit should form an essential part of your baggage. Most safaris start at around 9 a.m and by noon both man and animal take a break for food and an afternoon siesta and then it restarts at around 3.30 p.m. One of the stunning sights of the desert is the setting sun. Few scenes could rival the magnificence of the burning orange sun descending into the desert. It is what poet Samuel Coleridge Taylor would perhaps have called a painted sun on a painted desert. Dusk is fast and swift in the desert. By around 6 p.m. the safari usually stops at a dhani (small village). Curious villagers come out to greet the tourists who are no longer a surprise or an encroachment on their privacy. They are welcome here as their presence means money and prosperity. By 6.30 p.m. tents are pitched and preparations for the evening commence. The night brings to life a crystal clear sky with stars shining through like gems. With log fires burning to drive away the desert cold, the musicians take over while homegrown chefs prepare an ethnic meal. The musicians with their harmoniums and dholkis bring to life the very essence of the desert. Their rasp voices melodiously mingle with the stillness of the night. Folk songs bring to life the tales of Rajasthan. The music and the colourful dances blend with the beauty of the winter night to make it a memorable experience. The view of unending stretches of sand from atop a camel is truly amazing. On a threeday safari one can cover a vast expanse of the desert. If you have the time and
budget then an entire trail combining these three cities can be taken.
One can also try and include parts of the Shekhawati region in this
safari. This region is popularly known as India’s open art gallery
because of its frescoes, the painted havelis, temples and bazaars. —
NF
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