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WITH the price of gold rocketing to Rs 1,600 a gram, the modern miss has to look towards other sources for her jewellery, and in the hundreds of types of tribal jewellery all over India, we have a veritable treasure chest of patterns, mostly in silver and other affordable materials. Of late, tribal styles have come into fashion with stunning patterns in different materials, handmade by skilful artisans. Decorative necklaces, earrings, nose-rings, bangles and various other kinds of body jewellery showcase the artisan’s legacy and talent.
Patterns and designs used are mostly conventional — clay, wood, metal, shell, beads and stones are used in making these beautiful pieces of tribal jewellery. Tribal jewellery of India is much varied, in the use of materials, which include lac, glass, shells and beads. Kashmir, Himachal Pradesh, Gujarat, Rajasthan and the tribal zones in central, eastern and southern India are renowned for ornaments in silver, and a particular type of alloy called pewter, that imitates silver. Chunky bead-and-metal jewellery of Himachal is popular and is in great demand. The enamel workers of Kangra, Chamba, Mandi and Kulu have produced exquisite ornaments. Pahari women wear necklaces known as chandanhaars (a bunch of long silver chains linked by engraved or enamelled silver plaques), chokers called kach (made of silver beads and triangular plaques) and the collar-like hansali, besides heavy anklets, bangles and silver bracelets. In Lahaul-Spiti, ornaments are studded with semi-precious stones like coral, turquoise, amber and mother-of-pearl. The jewellery of Ladakh mainly consists of fi (amber), churu (coral), yu (turquoise) and tiny seed pearls made into necklaces and earrings. Modern women are not slow to find out the value of tribal jewellery. "If ethnic, tribal and chunky jewellery attracts you, you have a penchant for not just collecting it, but also carrying it off with a panache’’, says Nirupama Kaul, a collegian of Mumbai. Gujarat emporiums all over India have original bead work jewellery. "The price of real stone jewellery varies between Rs 100 and Rs 200. Interestingly, the price for these has not increased for the last 12 years, and all our stock comes from Dahod district in Gujarat," says the manager of Gurjari at Mumbai, adding, "gemstones, coins, bone, wood, clay, shells, crude metal beads and precious items are often used in making tribal jewellery." Anusuya Kale, an office-goer of Ahmedabad, opines: "I think that Gurjari products are a unique kind of jewellery. I like it as it is comfortable to wear and is not too gaudy also," she claims. "Tribal jewellery has a funky look, different from the regular kind of jewellery. Besides, it is easy to carry in your daily wear and it goes well with all kinds of dresses," is the opinion of Meenakshi Rao of Chennai, who has been purchasing such jewellery. Disha, a young working girl of New Delhi, has a different reason to offer: "Besides being trendy and designer, tribal jewellery gives one a rough and tough appearance. So one must try this kind of jewellery that is different from the regular gold, silver treasures,denoting status." As people look out for
more substance and content in tribal jewellery pieces they buy and
wear, designers and brands are looking for new approaches and
alternative cultural influences that they can interpret in their
design language. — MF
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