Food talk
Chooza Afghani

This mouth-watering dish can be made with chicken breasts as well as legs attached to the thighs,
writes Pushpesh Pant

Strange are the ways in which a recipe travels across the globe. If the lore associated with this one is to be given credence, then it started with the barren killing hillsides of Tora-Bora in the Afghanistan-Pakistan border headed with the ferocious fanatical Taliban in captivity to Guantanamo Bay and back to the subcontinent with interrogators with extreme tastes.

The chance acquaintance who shared it with us was a German young man fluent in Dari, Pashtu and Urdu and was employed, so he said, for a while to interpret the testimony of non-English speaking terrorists in various holding camps before they were dispatched to dungeons in Cuba where all who entered abandoned hope. Stranger are the ways of men who continue to pine for familiar favourite foods even in punitive solitary confinement or biding time in death row.

The small talk in between business sessions our source told us were peppered with nostalgic references to chooza Afghani — a dish very different from what is encountered in the mouth-watering menus in eateries in Basti Nizamuddin and elsewhere in the old city in the Capital. (Also in the food streets in Lahore, Pindi and Peshawar).

This earthy robust dish, which can be made with chicken breasts as well as legs attached to the thighs, is not a pretentious aromatic delicacy. It makes do with whatever is at hand and reminds us of more than anything else the jungli maans in Maharaja Sailana’s fabled cookbook. We were strongly tempted to introduce it as jungli murgi but were cautioned by beloved son Indrajit that this could be confusing.

There are broilers, croilers, desi chicken and hardly seen now game birds — the real jungli murgi. Discretion being the better part of valour, we have settled for Teekha Sika Afghani Chooza. The undercover linguist was an accomplished reconnoiter given to embellishing the tales of his travels. We never found out whether he had got the information his masters desired by tickling the palates of Afghan prisoners and softening their resistance but what is undeniable is that this no frills idiot-proof recipe is stunning.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients

Chicken breasts (with bones but without skin) 500gm
Garlic-ginger paste 1tbsp
Thick curds 1tbsp
Dried red chillies shredded four-five
Oil ¼ cup
Salt to taste

Method

Clean, trim, wash and pat-dry the chicken. Make deep gashed with a sharp knife taking care that you don’t cut through the bone. Blend the curds, garlic ginger paste and salt and rub evenly on chicken ensuring that some of this marinade is placed inside the gashes. Keep aside for 30 minutes.

Heat oil in a frying pan to smoking. Reduce the heat to medium and gently lower the chicken into it. Sear to seal in the juices. Turn once or twice. Baste with the marinade stirring regularly till it is exhausted. Cover and simmer for about 15 minutes uncovering once or twice in between turning the chicken over and sprinkling 1 tsp of water. Scrape the dark brown residue that clings to the bottom of the pan. Uncover, add 1 tbsp water stir well and let the moisture evaporate. The teekha sika Afghani chooza should by now have acquired a rich brown colour. Garnish with onion rings and enjoy.





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