Food talk
 Dry delight

Sukha Gosht blends many influences — Punjabi, Delhi, Moslem and Kayastha, writes Pushpesh Pant

The carnivores among the Homo sapiens, as everyone knows well, are split among lovers of curry and those who favour the roasts. Dry delights of mouth-watering kebab and tikka, not to forget the raan shaan, never can lure the passengers on the gravy train and it’s the same the other way round.

Interestingly, there are delicacies that fall in the twilight zone like bhuna gosht (that the IIC in the Capital excels in) that both communities can relish equally. The succulent meat is draped with thick sauce-like gravy and you can devote yourself to what you prefer.

Another attraction of such recipes is that these are seldom pretentious like pedigreed qorma jostling each other vying for top billing as signature dishes in menus of fine dining restaurants and retain a humble homely touch. These are robust in a most appealing earthy manner. We have always found them loyal friends who never let you down.

Late friend and great food lover Prof Ali Baqar from Hyderabad had once educated us about the difference in taqalluf ke khane and aam faham khane — celebratory delicacies served on formal occasions and daily but no less tasty fare. The distinction is useful to remember and recipes like bhuna gosht deserve to be duly recognised.

What has triggered this chain of thought is the afterglow left behind by the sukha gosht brought home as a belated New Year treat by our student Lajpat Rai. It blends many influences intuitively — Punjabi, Delhi, Moslem and Kayastha; eschews the aromatic Awadhi and all in all is extremely satisfying. Find out for yourself.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients

Meat (chops mostly and shoulder,

cleaned and washed) 1 kg

Onions (sliced very fine) 500 gm

Garlic paste 1 tbsp

Ginger paste 1 tbsp

Tomatoes (sliced fine) 250 gm

Kashmiri red chillies 1 tsp

Zeera powder 1 tsp

Kali mirch powder ½ tsp

Dhania powder 2 tsp

Cloves 2-3

Brown cardamoms two

Cinnamon 1inch piece

Refined oil 200 ml

Salt to taste

Method
Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan. Add first the whole spices and when these begin to crackle, add the meat and brown it on high heat to seal in the juices stirring constantly. Add the onions, reduce heat to medium and when lightly browned, add ginger garlic pastes, stir briskly for 30 seconds, then put in the tomatoes with the powdered spices along with the salt. Add about a cup of boiling water and cover. Cook on medium low flame for about 15 minutes stirring occasionally. Add a little water to avoid sticking or burning. Remove when done to taste.





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