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Earlier, waistcoats used to be part of the formal three-piece suit. Now, youngsters are sporting these to make a style statement,
writes Hector Choksi
SIXTY years ago the Jawahar waistcoat, popularised by the first Prime Minister of India, Jawaharlal Nehru, was the rage among fashionistas. Now, waistcoats are in this season and are the hottest item in stores from Big Bazaar in Mumbai to Pondy Bazaar in Chennai. From superstars like SRK to regular college-going guys, everyone is sporting this trendy semi-formal wear. Earlier, waistcoats used to be formal wear worn on top of shirts to complete a tuxedo. Now, guys and gals are sporting it to make a style statement, especially at social functions. It is all about the interplay of masculinity and femininity. The way the leading ladies of style are wearing it, it is more sensual than masculine. Besides the fact that the staid waistcoat has loosened its collar and become more causal, the other prominent newness is that it is absolutely asexual. Both men and women are using it as their favourite layering element, or even just over bare skin. So, it is time to get out the waistcoat. But, for men, as per fashion designer Chandra Chotrani’s verdict, as the waistcoats cling to the body and accentuate your waistline, only the slim/medium built men will find it suitable. Chotrani opines that materials like thick linen/denim/suede leather would be OK for the guys. He also advises that the pointed portion should reach up to the waistline, and it is preferable to have buttons than zips on your waistcoat. Today large Madras checks/ginghamchecks are the designs to choose. If you are tall and slim, then vertical stripes are preferable; and if you are lanky, then opt out for horizontal stirpes. For college lads, the acme of the fashionable young crowd, it will be in order to decide on frayed denim waistcoats to wear on shirts. Here the colour of the shirt is of paramount importance, and if it is a solid colour, then go for striped/checkered waistcoats and vice-versa. Fine cuts, striped designs and striking colours in waistcoats make for smart dressing. As per Shekhar Phadnis, representing the famous Italian brand Paul Zileri in India, now waistcoat has become a desired piece of outfit in a metro sexual man’s wardrobe. To suit the occasion you can have waistcoats with crystal work/embroideries/ sequence details to match with a silk shirt for the evening. With the winter setting in, it is also comfortable for the season. Casual waistcoats can be in soft drill or corduroy. Dressier ones can be plain or pin-stripped and look a lot better, if they are in textured or high gloss fabrics and materials, including leather. For more formal occasions and when you prefer to go without a jacket, wear a waistcoat over a slim fit and well-structured shirt with a contrasting coloured tie tucked neatly underneath. This way you can look quite sophisticated and chic. As for the ladies, the trend is yet to catch on the social circuit. For the college gals the waistcoat worn over denim cut-offs or skirts (mini skirts worn over modesty shorts) is just perfect for the tomboy look). It is a trend which is growing as a lot of girls have started wearing waistcoats with shirts for that formal chic look. Fashion maestros Krishna Paudwal and Nazarene Hoda advise ladies that it would be more stylish to wear the waistcoat without the shirt inside. But before you go bare under, make sure you have a body like this nubile nymphet’s. No one wants to see flab. If you are wearing just a waistcoat, it should be snug and long enough to fit like a short T-shirt. If you are regular pant/shirt enthusiast, the waistcoat fits in here also, as you do not have to swelter in the heat with a jacket. The usual office staple being black and white, a waistcoat with plaid designs will put a new `E9lan in your stride. The style mantra is that a waistcoat should fit like a second skin. But add a lot of volume to your pants or skirts. Men can team it up with a smart pair of trousers or skinny jeans and thin ties. Women can pick a pair of flare pants or a skirt. The idea is to go tight at the top and add a lot of volume to your pants or skirts. Big kaftan sleeves and pleated shirts also look great when worn with well-fitted waistcoats. Will you be OK in a
waistcoat? Here is what you need to figure out. Waistcoats draw
attention to the tummy. So, if you are carrying an extra tyre around
the waist, give it a miss. Women who are busty or have a heavier upper
body should skip it, too. It is not known for its slimming effect. —
MF
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