Food talk
Potato pickle

Alu ka achar can bridge the gap between a vegetable and a pickle, writes Pushpesh Pant

DRIVING down from Shimla, one encounters many shops by the highway that specialise in murg or meat ka achar — interesting stuff with reasonably long shelf life. Vegetarians, too, can tickle their palate with khumb ka achar. Imitation, it is said, is the best form of flattery and enterprising people in Uttarakhand have set up stalls to purvey similar stuff. Or, this is the impact of the Punjabi settlers in the Terai region? We never forget to pick up bottles for home whenever wayfaring in these parts. The only problem is that the novelty soon wears off and what tasted great away from home is seldom consumed as enthusiastically with everyday meal. The ‘pickle’ can’t really compete with regular achar — pachranga, Priya or homemade. A friend, sick of our grumbling, took up the challenge and recently treated us to homemade alu ka achar — a hybrid if there ever was one — that seeks to bridge the gap between a subzi and an
achar. The good lady deliberately avoids preparing it with a vegetable with meaty texture because she claims why mimic or fake the carnivorous lifestyle when there is so much more to nature’s bounty?

The experience triggered a chain of old memories. Wasn’t it Marcel Proust, the great French novelist who observed that all of us spend our adult lives trying to recapture the lost sensations — alluring aromas and fleeting flavours — that seduced us in childhood? One remembered suddenly the wonderful alu ka achar mum used to prepare with the shelf life of just two days with kaccha sarson ka tel and mustard seeds — piquant not pungent. Sharp not stinging, sour slightly and spiced subtly. Alas the recipe has disappeared with her and the Nepali til wala alu ka achar, though interesting, falls far short.

The appeal of all achari preparation, to our mind, is due to time-tested charm of pickling spices — traditional/regional tempered and tinkered by family recipes. Forget the bit about shelf life — go ahead and enjoy the achari alu as a snack, side dish or even main course for a light balanced meal.

Don’t forget ever since the root/tuber made its long distance journey from the Andes, it has in many lands served as the staff of life.

Chef’s corner

Ingredients

Potatoes (boiled) 500 gm

Mustard oil 4 tbsp

Saunf 1 tsp

Zeera seeds 1 tsp

Methidana 1 tsp

Mustard seeds 1/2 tsp

Kalaunji 1/2 tsp

Peppercorns (optional) 1/2 tsp

Lime juice 2 tbsp

Salt to taste

A pinch of haldi

A pinch of lal mirch powder

A sprig of hara dhania (chopped fine)

Method
Peel and slice the potatoes about quarter inch thick. Heat oil in a thick-bottomed pan. When it reaches the smoking point, put in the spice seeds. When these crackle, add the sliced potatoes and salt, along with the haldi and mirchi powders. Cook on medium low flame for about two minutes stirring carefully to ensure that the masala coats the alu evenly but the pieces don’t break. Sprinkle the limejuice. Just before serving lace with a tsp of kaccha mustard oil. Garnish with hara dhania.





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